Swildon's Hole to Sump 1 trips 15/08/2021 and 13/08/2023

Unless otherwise stated, camera, setups, lighting, edits and gallery effects by Tarquin. Modelling and lighting at various points will be Lizzy Bolt, Pete Bolt and Steph Andrews.

The 2021 trip was Lizzy's second proper caving trip. By chance, this trip took place almost exactly on the 30 year anniversary of my first ever caving trip, which happened to also be a trip to Swildon's Hole Sump 1. It was also the 100 year anniversary of the first ever trip to reach Sump 1 during its original exploration, and 120 years since the entrance was first discovered, so this was quite poetic timing. A second trip then added some more pictures. The total trip drops about 115 metres from entrance to sump, and it took us almost exactly 2.5 hours in total. The depth is the same as Ogof Ffynnon Ddu Top Entrance to the Main Streamway via Maypole Inlet, but with 45% more distance. It packs a lot into that short space of time, and you definitely feel it on the way out.

Despite being open passage all the way from the entrance, the cave's original exploration took 20 years of pushing to reach the sump. In part, that is because the landowner dammed the stream for a few years to make a trout pool, and denied access. However, caving was still in its infancy, and dedicated equipment did not exist. Most cavers wore old clothes, particularly tweed suits and flat farmer's caps, and used candles or handheld paraffin lanterns (if they were lucky) for lighting. Waterfalls were a major hazard. During the 1930s, cavers were starting to switch to helmet-mounted carbide lamps, which were also affected by water, but could at least be re-lit faster than a damp candle wick. Even so, some of the major caving pioneers on Mendip, such as Herbert Balch, still advocated candles as late as 1937, having originally led the exploration of Swildon's Hole. The first cave dives done here used candles as their light source, meaning that there was no lighting while diving, and the candles had to be lit in the dark beyond a sump. The early exploration of this cave must have been epic!

  1. The all-important Minnie Mouse onesie undersuit, the staple of novice caving. Priddy Green is one of those rare places that has its own changing rooms instead of getting changed on the side of the road, so only the final part of kitting up needs to happen here. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete
  2. Priddy Green Sink (the manhole cover), with a gutter funneling the runoff from the road into the natural sink. That runoff includes any outflow from the nearby cattle sheds, so the cave has a rather "special" character. It was dug (!) to provide a through trip into Swildon's Hole, emerging in the well known Cowsh Avens, named because of the smell of cowsh(it).
  3. The entrance to Swildon's Hole, an active sink a couple of fields away, with its distinctive castle turret. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete
  4. The water sinks a metre below the base of the turret to enter the entrance passage, but in flood, it can pond up and flow into the overflow pipe, which channels the water into a different passage, leaving the entrance drier and still usable. Some very small cavers have been known to enter the cave through this pipe, as a challenge! Modelling by Tarquin
  5. If the water rises further, it can enter the cave through this grating. By that stage, it can also be flowing into the turret door. The hole in the hollow tree is another classic small-caver entrance, which my brother has used. It drops about 2 metres down to a side passage near the entrance.
  6. The main entrance, inside the turret. The opening was originally discovered in 1901, after clearing debris that covered it. This drops into a confusion of passages that regularly gets changed and rearranged by the water. There used to be a climb down into a chamber, but the bottom fell out, making it too risky to climb. A new route opened up to reach the bottom. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Sol and Lizzy
  7. There are three main routes through the Upper Series: Wet Way, Short Dry Way, and Long Dry Way or Pretty Way. A fourth route involves The Oxbows, which can be used to bypass various parts of the Wet Way. Early on, the Zigzags and Kenneys' Dig can be used to jump between the routes. We started off down Binnie's Link (also known as Butcombe Bypass), the route to the Short Dry Way, but then passed over Jacob's Ladder into the Long Dry Way. This passage did not exist until the 1980s. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  8. Start of the Long Dry Way, which quickly earns its alternative name Pretty Way. These formations are near the junction with Kenneys' Dig. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  9. Column.
  10. The formations see a lot of traffic, as this is the most visited cave on Mendip. Modelling by Lizzy
  11. The pretty way would once have been a lot more pretty, and is the sort of passage that might get taped off in modern times. But it was found long ago before the importance of conservation became recognised. Modelling by Lizzy
  12. Below the first chamber (which is remarkable only because it is the first place without formations). From here, the route starts to descend steeply. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  13. Boulder Chamber, the route up to the New Grottoes. The New Grottoes are the highest part of the cave, scraping in at just 1 metre above the entrance. Modelling by Pete and Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin, Pete and Lizzy
  14. Below Boulder Chamber.
  15. The rift has two levels, with the lower level containing a small inlet. We remain in the upper level, with the formations, until a climb is needed to reach the floor. Modelling by Lizzy and hints of Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  16. Rock bridge at the start of the Old Grotto. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  17. Old Grotto, the largest part of the Dry Ways. The formations here are admirable, though dry and ... well ... old. The Short Dry Way rejoins from the left, having taken a direct route from when it was last seen. The Short Dry Way brings a stream with it. After all, why should the cave care what names it has been given. At one point, almost the entire stream used to flow through the Short Dry Way, as the cave remodelled itself yet again. Modelling by Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  18. Old Grotto. Modelling by Steph, lighting by Tarquin and Steph
  19. The impressive curtain of Old Grotto. Sadly it is too thick to shine lights through. Modelling by Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  20. Last portion of the Dry Ways, before the routes combine. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin, Pete and Lizzy
  21. Water Chamber, the largest chamber on our route, where the Wet Way, The Oxbows and Dry Ways (seen on the right) combine. From here, the cave continues its charge downhill (to the left), having only lost just over 30 metres from the entrance. Modelling by Pete and Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin, Pete and Lizzy
  22. Starting with a clamber down into Water Rift, where a thorough soaking is earned. This is a sporting cave, and there is no point in pretending that you can remain dry. Get soaked, get it over with, and get on with the caving. Except that I then traversed over the top and remained dry. From here, the original route through the cave was to traverse on the ledges, then climb up to ceiling height to reach the head of the Forty Foot Pot. This is where the original exploration phase had ended in 1901. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  23. The Water Rift descends steeply to the head of a cascade; the Eight Foot Drop. A clamber down reaches the floor of the Forty Foot Pot. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  24. Climbing down the Eight Foot Drop. Modelling by Steph, lighting by Tarquin and Steph
  25. Using ladders down the Forty Foot Pot was the only way to reach this spot until the severe 1968 floods created the current route down to the base of the pitch. This is a very dynamic cave. No matter how you rig it, this has never been a 40 foot pot. At best, it is a 29 foot (8.7 metre) drop, with the main part of the drop being 22 foot (6.6 metres). But since ladders were typically made in 20 foot lengths, you would have needed two of them. The ceiling is almost exactly 40 foot up, however. Lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  26. The gradient eases off for a little while. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  27. Grand passage with overhanging flowstone between the Forty Foot Pot and Twenty Foot Pot. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  28. Stal before the Twenty Foot Pot. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  29. The Twenty Foot Pot, or just The Twenty, the characteristic obstacle, where novices earn a full dunking as they try to work out how electron ladders work. At the top, you have to work out how to grip the rungs without crushing your fingers as they are pulled against the stal bank, then at the bottom, it swings you into the waterfall. An experienced ladder climber can remain dry with difficulty. The pitch is actually under 14 foot, measured as 4.1 metres in the survey. It is seen here is slightly elevated water conditions, with the water levels still dropping after substantial rainfall. Exploration had reached here in 1914, but it took another 7 years to get further downstream. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  30. This section of streamway is well decorated, and has managed to avoid distruction from flooding and passing cavers.
  31. Below The Twenty. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  32. Formations in the ceiling.
  33. Curtain cluster. The damage to the curtains is likely to be from flooding, not from cavers.
  34. Flowstone and curtains.
  35. Admiring the formations. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  36. Banks of flowstone and curtains.
  37. Flowstone and curtains.
  38. Above Double Pots.
  39. Upper of the Double Pots. Modelling by Lizzy and essence of Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  40. Jumping in, the baptism that earns the title True Daughter Of Mendip. Congratulations Lizzy. The pool is as deep as it appears here; she is touching the bottom. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  41. The decorated ceiling above the Double Pots.
  42. The main pot of Double Pots is the lower one. Modelling by Steph, lighting by Tarquin and Steph
  43. The main pot of Double Pots is a little more tricky. It starts as a basic clamber down, but then the most obvious route is to jump in (a second baptism), or more likely a fall in (we've all been there!). Modelling by Pete, lighting by Tarquin and Pete
  44. The more water-shy cavers traverse along the wall of the pot, with many falling in from here. Modelling by Pete, lighting by Tarquin and Pete
  45. Formations in the streamway below Double Pots. Lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  46. Streamway below Double Pots. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  47. The start of the climb into Barnes' Loop, a decorated bypass to the streamway.
  48. Formations in Barnes' Loop.
  49. Formations above Barnes' Loop.
  50. Curtains and colum in Banes' Loop. Modelling by Steph, lighting by Tarquin and Steph
  51. Window between curtains in Barnes' Loop. Modelling by Steph, lighting by Tarquin and Steph
  52. Tiered flowstone and curtains in Barnes' Loop, showing the old glory of the cave, compared with the formations in the earlier part of the cave. Modelling by Steph, lighting by Tarquin and Steph
  53. Under formations in Barnes' Loop. Modelling by Steph, lighting by Tarquin and Steph
  54. Detail of the formations in Barnes' Loop.
  55. Detail of the formations.
  56. Miniature crystal pools, looking like a pack of noodles.
  57. Final grand formations in Barnes' Loop. The way on is a clamber through the rift on the right, regaining the stream. Modelling by Steph, lighting by Tarquin and Steph
  58. The challenging Inclined Rift, running below Barnes' Loop, used to avoid damaging formations in the passage above. The passage descends 10 metres like this. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  59. Formations at the end of the Inclined Rift.
  60. The end of Barnes' Loop, where it drops back down into the stream. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  61. Somewhere near the Washing Pot pool. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  62. Formations above the river. Somewhere near here is the climb up to Tratman's Temple, the way to the Round Trip, and the dry route to the rest of the cave.
  63. Cascade below Tratman's Temple (I think). Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  64. Looking back up above the cascade into the upper level, which I think might be part of Tratman's Temple. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  65. The lower streamway, now devoid of formations. Flood scum high on the boulders showed that it had recently flooded here. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  66. A large section of passage in the Lower Streamway. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  67. Sump 1, which is so far the only sump I have ever been through. It is short enough to put your hand through and feel airspace, and is sometimes a duck. The flood scum shows the flood water depth within the last few days. This is where exploration ended during the summer drought in 1921, making this Britain's deepest cave at the time (now far surpassed by many others). This sump was the site of the first cave dive attempt in Britain, in 1934, although the sump was not successfully passed until two years later, making it the second sump in the World to be successfully dived, and the first to be dived to reach surface on the other side. Before that, the sump had been artificially shortened by blasting, so it was not actually much of a major obstacle. In fact, as a teenager, my sister and I were down here in Sunday best with oversuits over the top, and decided to go through here to Sump 2. On this particular trip, I was happy to remain relatively warm. Modelling by Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  68. We headed out via the Wet Way. This is the Lavatory Pan, the most notorious of obstacles, where it feels like you just got flushed. I must admit that I got a wet knee here. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete
  69. And another wet knee point, just upstream. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  70. Comical climb below one of the junctions with the Lower and Upper Oxbows. This climb can be particularly tricky. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  71. The cave has been modifying itself again. This passage used to be The Well, where the stream passed through an impassable rift. Instead, it has now become an open rift, with Kenneys' Dig joining above. Modelling by Lizzy, lighting by Tarquin and Lizzy
  72. Climbing out from Showerbath Chamber into Binnie's Link, closing the loop. A short scramble then brought us out to daylight, completing the trip. Modelling by Lizzy and Pete, lighting by Tarquin, Lizzy and Pete