Northern Introduction
Between a rock and a hard place, as we pass in and out of Northern Ireland.
It's important to get some of the political background in order to really understand Northern Ireland. I will attempt to summarise some of the important parts here. I may make some mistakes, but this should be enough to give you the general idea. It is not intended to insult anyone, their political views, or their religion, and I ask that you please view it that way. It is intended as an independent view of a person who would prefer to be classed as 'neither' (see below). If this all bores you, skip to the pictures, but some of them may not make sense without it.
Back in the early days of the British Empire, the entire island of Ireland was a single country, with a traditionally Catholic population of Irish Gaelic Celts. It was - like much of the World - taken over as part of the empire, and became a principal part of the United Kingdom. To speed the takeover, Protestant supporters of William of Orange were imported to colonise Ireland. Most of these were Sottish Gaelic Celts from nearby Scotland, and the largest number remained in the northern part of the island. In 1921, at the end of the Irish War of Independence, the counties with an expected majority population of settlers and their descendants were split into Northern Ireland, with the rest becoming Southern Ireland. In 1922, both of these Irish countries were detatched from the United Kingdom to become part of an independent country called the Irish Free State. Northern Ireland, due to its concentration of settlers and several generations of their descendants, immediately chose to rejoin the United Kingdom instead of remaining in the Irish Free State. The Irish Free State (of which Southern Ireland was now the only member) was then renamed to the Republic of Ireland.
Northern Ireland still has a large number of descendants of both the indigenous Irish (about 44% of the population), and the settlers (about 53%). Each group strongly maintains their own heritage. Descendants of the Irish are nominally termed Catholic, and those of the settlers are nominally termed Protestant. Their individual actual religious beliefs have nothing at all to do with it; often they do claim to follow that religion, however, though not always actively. They will choose names for their children based on that categorisation, with the Protestants using older biblical names, and Catholics using more recent saints' names. This naming makes easy identification of allies and foe, and failing that, a choice of side will be made based on ancestry. It's not about religion. It's about politics.
The term "side" may seem extreme, but this is a country dominated by the political split between the two. Catholics in general (or more correctly; Nationalists) vie for reunification with the Republic of Ireland, and Protestants in general (or more correctly; Unionists) vie for remaining a part of the United Kingdom. Even if a member of one group does not personally agree with the overall view of their group, or does not have any particular view either way, that viewpoint is assumed simply because of their ancestry. For many years, there were battles, later becoming attacks, gang fighting and bombings. This culminated in The Troubles, as each side struggled to make their choice become the dominant one. Though things have settled over the last 11 years, there is still a very strong feeling of segregation and intimidation from both sides.
When getting a job, candidates are required to state if they are Catholic, Protestant or neither. Public services have rules about ensuring that interview panels have at least one representative from each group. Large numbers from each group fanatically support either the Celtic (Catholic) or Rangers (Protestant) football teams, even though both are based in Glasgow in Scotland. Marriages happen mainly within each group - marriages between the two groups are relatively rare, and can cause divides within families. Different parts of each city and town are dedicated to housing members of one group only. Straying into the wrong parts of some towns at the wrong time can have serious consequences. Each side has its own feast days, festivals and parades, used as a way of showing national pride, resulting in what feels like a significant dose of intimidation.
This all makes the question of reunification vs remaining part of the UK, feel like the proverbial stance between a rock and a hard place. Either way a lot of people are offended. It is certainly not an enviable position.
Aside from the speed limits changing to mph (but who pays attention to those signs on this island, eh?) and a change in currency (though both are accepted in many places around the border), this is the first sign of Northern Ireland. A cenotaph and monument to the memories of the people who died in the 1987 Remembrance Day bombings at this location in Enniskillen, which was carried out by one of the better known extremist groups. You can find more out about it on Wikipedia.
Then there are these; 10 foot walls, 12 foot fences, steel doors, bastion guardhouse, occasional watchtowers. Of course, a police station. Not a military outpost. Not a prison. A police station. This should give a small idea of just how bad things must have been during The Troubles.
For a couple of months either side of a feast day or or festival, the relevant group attaches flags to their parts of the cities, towns and even tiny villages, to show their political persuasions. It lets others know whose area they are in. This one is a Unionist area. It is very unsettling to see the flag of my own country used in such a way. The Scotish flag represents their ancestry and loyalty. Over night, someone will attach these to random lamp posts. The councils dare not take them down for fear of implying support for the other side. Locals dare not take them down for fear of repercussions. You're in that area. Live with it.
Another flag they use is the Ulster Banner representing the part of Ulster that is in Northern Ireland. Though the patterns are derived from the older Ulster provincial flag, its colours are clearly derived from the English flag, showing an allegiance to England. Makes the English flag feel a whole lot more creepy.
And the Orangemen flag.
Ulster Freedom Fighters.
And other Unionist flags.
And the bunting.
Oh, and the kerbs. And lamp posts. And even bus stops. That lasts all year. These are in Derry. Or was that Londonderry? As another gotcha, Derry (city and county) was renamed to Londonderry in 1662 in reference to London, its new overlord. Nationalists want it to be renamed back, and in fact, most people use Derry as its common name, including the council, who readopted that name in the seventies. Permission to be renamed back to Derry was revoked in 2007, leaving the official name as Londonderry, as it appears on most maps, and official channels. Unionists often use the name Londonderry as a way of showing which side they are on. Others (including impartials) use Derry. Be careful which one you use, because you could be making a political statement without meaning to.
Catholics fly the Tricolour flag of the Republic of Ireland. This particular one seems to be flown in protest against the Unionist flags, not due to a Nationalist feast day.
Seeing this flag in this context makes the carefree Irish attitude feel far less friendly. It may be interesting to note that the orange in this flag actually represents the Protestants of Northern Ireland - the supporters of William of Orange. The original idea was to use it to represent both groups in a united Ireland, even though the people it represents are the ones who do not want this.
No idea why there is a Palestinian flag though.
Some choose this flag representing the four traditional provinces. Supposedly it is more neutral.
The United Kingdom flag is made from three flags, one of which is the flag of Saint Patrick, patron saint of Ireland. It is used to represent Northern Ireland, even though Saint Patrick is a saint most revered by the Irish Catholics, and the Catholic Nationalists are the ones who do not want to be part of the United Kingdom. What a mess.
Dare I ask who or what these represent? Enough politics. Enough flags. Enough.
500 year old Enniskillen Castle, which looks more like a barbican.
Lower Lough Erne. This part of Ireland is referred to as its lake district, where it has 30% of its total area consisting of lakes or rivers.
Ducklings.
Forests of Fermanagh. The undergrowth is particularly thick, but that seems to be normal over there.
Shores of Lower Lough Erne.
Roots.
Reeds.
Surge.
Reed bed.
Bullrush. Couldn't get close enough to get the bokeh effect right.
Branches of (I think) a rhododendron bush.
200 year old steam house - like a sauna - in Castle Archdale Country Park.
Suffocating tree.
Tea? Yes please. Coffee? No, thanks, just tea. Sugar? No, thanks, just tea. Now that's a Brit for you.
Squealin pig muff. What mental images does this conjour up for you?
Lough Foyle bay, looking back over the border into Northern Ireland. We have now entered the Inishowen peninsula of County Donegal, the northernmost county in the Republic of Ireland.
Slieve Snaght (615 metres), the tallest mountain on the peninsula.
Capped with cloud.
Bulbin (494 metres).
Coolcross Hill and Crockaughrim (both under 300 metres) with Raghtin More (502 metres) in the background. The hills around here may not be all that high, but they make up for it in appearance.
Trawbreaga Bay.
Stonework at Banba's Crown.
Lichen.
At low tide, the black rocks heading out into the sea at Banba's Crown are the most northerly point of the island of Ireland. Note that this refers only to the main island, as there are many small islands further out that are a part of either the Republic of Ireland or Northern Ireland.
At high tide, this is the northernmost point.
The high tide cuts off this island from the rest of the mainland, separating them through a 30 metre deep cleft.
The island has a little hilltop called Dunalderagh that is often incorrectly thought of at the northernmost point (in fact, it even holds that status officially). Whether that matters or not is up to you.
It is possible to jump the cleft at this end only, but the cliff is too steep to climb onto the island alone. Best to wait for low tide.
Rock pool in the cleft.
Rock pool on the island. 20 metres up. How does it manage to keep topped up with sea water?
Banba's Crown watchtower, dating from the Napoleonic wars, built in 1805.
Looking down the coast towards Malin Head.
And back to the northernmost point.
Deep cleft down to the sea. One of these is called Hell's Hole, but I am not sure which one.
Perhaps it's this one.
Or maybe it's this one. This seems to be the largest, and fits the required dimensions of 20 metres wide, 27 metres long, and 30 metres deep. See the humans on the right for scale.
Sheldern Mor and Sheldern Beg, two sea stacks in a magnificent setting. On the left is Malin Head, where there is also a shattered rock arch called Devil's Bridge near the end, but we were chased away by a fast moving storm.
Rock spikes that look amazingly similar to Stetinden in Norway.
View of the mountainous part of the peninsula. The tallest in the picture is Raghtin More. Note the rain on the right.
Storm front.
Cottage at Malin Head.
Esky Bay.
Knockamany Bens, part of a popular route called the Inishowen 100, a 100 km route around the coast. On roads like this.
Superb view over Five Finger Strand.
Five fingers? Note the rain, again.
Part of an Irish traffic jam.
Dunaff Head.
Remains of an extensive fortress on Leenan Head. Now this is a place for pictures.
The fortress dates back to the Napoleonic wars, but was adapted for use in World War II. As a result, it has a mix of styles and defensive approaches - note the curtain wall with rifle ports. The site has suffered very badly from vandalism and a little fly tipping, and parts are now used as barns. But lots of this gives it a decaying desolate quality. Bring a torch.
Attendant ditch - a last line of defence.
Caponier, a bastion with rifle ports built into the fortification curtain wall in the attendant ditch.
Remains of a building used as an animal shelter.
Chimney with Raghtin More behind it.
Chimneys under a foreboding sky.
Rubble.
Fireplace.
Buildings with lobster net, and the Urris Hills (417 metres).
Chimneys and water tank with Raghtin More and Mamore Hill (423 metres).
Largest standing building.
Tree reclaiming the site.
Looks like someone was scared.
Water tower.
Ominous skies.
Gaol. That's "jail" to those of you who can't spell.
Lower casemate, where larger guns or a battery of cannon could be mounted.
Lower magazine.
Tunnels.
Gap between the tunnel and the rock - perhaps used to cushion any accidental explosions inside the magazine, and protect the magazine from explosions outside it.
Stairway. At least this one does not have a pile of rubbish thrown down it.
Lamp room. Be very careful of the uncovered holes here that drop into other levels.
Upper magazine.
Upper stairway.
Shell store.
Upper casemate.
Bunker.
Chasm that the bunkers look out over.
Cliffs and sea caves.
Collapsed roof.
Remains of the fortress with Knockalla (363 metres) behind it.
Upper part of the attendant ditch with fortification curtain wall and caponier.
Rifle port.
Roads at Ardagh.
Pollan Bay. It's now time to leave Inishowen.
Boat at Greencastle.
Greencastle Harbour.
Ferry to Northern Ireland.
Magilligan Point in Northern Ireland, seen over the mouth of Lough Foyle.
Castlerock.
Warren Point lighthouse.
Lough Foyle mouth, with Dunagree Point (Republic of Ireland) on the left, and Magilligan Point (Northern Ireland) on the right.
Binevenagh (385 metres), with a strange infinity symbol in the grass.
Bishop's Palace.
Sunset from Portstewart.
We arrived late (not this late, of course), and barely managed to secure a place in the last B & B, even after also trying in Portrush. This area is horribly popular.