The teeth of High Tatry
Granite ridges, peaks and crags.
Despite the nearly three days of rain that preceded it, the day unexpectedly started with clear skies and blazing sunshine. OK, so this picture was actually taken in the evening, but shh. Over Przedni Staw Polski is the main ridge of Miedziane (Mee'edja'ne - Copper - 2233 metres), followed by Szpiglasowy Wierch (Shpeeglasovi(h) Vee'erh - 2172 metres), then the double bump of Wyżni Liptowski Kostur (Vi(h)j(e)nyee Leeptofskee Kostoor - 2083 metres) and Niżni Liptowski Kostur (Nyeej(e)nyee Leeptofskee Kostoor - 2055 metres), and the ridge of Kotelnica.
The other side of the valley started cloudy, but the cloud soon lifted and settled on the other side of the ridge. We decided to make the most of the unexpected opportunity, and climb Kozi Wierch (Koj(e)ee Vee'erh - Chamois Peak), once we made the sensible move of booking ourselves in to the shelter early - a change of rooms, but a room at least.
No doubt a very cliché picture, but that doesn't stop it being beautiful. The outflow from Wielki Staw Polski (Vee'elkee Staf Polskee - Great Polish Lake), with Wyżni Liptowski Kostur, Niżni Liptowski Kostur, the ridge of Kotelnica, and Gładki Wierch (Gwadkee Vee'erh - Smooth Peak - 2065 metres).
Approaching the base of the Kozi mountain. The walk up Kozi is fairly short, and the peak seemed to be constantly enveloped in the remaining cloud. Since a walk in the clouds didn't seem like a fun idea (and was a very predictable film), the plan was changed to climbing the nearby Świnica (Shveeneetsa - sharp/pig peak).
The amphitheatre of Kozi. From left to right: Kołowa Czuba (Kowova Chooba - 2105 metres), Mały Kozi Wierch (Mawi(h) Koj(e)ee Vee'erh - Little Chamois Peak - 2228 metres), Zamarła Turnia (Zamarwa Toornia - Frozen With Terror Needle - 2179 metres), Kozie Czuby (Koj(e)e Choobi(h) - Chamois Crags - 2266 metres) and Kozi Wierch (2291 metres) partly hidden in the clouds behind a crag. Between Mały Kozi Wierch and Zamarła Turnia are the Zamarłe Turnie (Zamarwe Toornee'e) outcrops then Zmarzła Przełęcz (Zamaj(e)wa Pshew'ew(n)ch - Frozen Pass - 2126 metres), between Zamarła Turnia and Kozie Czuby is Kozia Przełęcz (Koj(e)a Pshew'ew(n)ch - Chamois Pass - 2137 metres), and between Kozie Czuby and Kozi Wierch is Wyżnia Kozia Przełęcz (Vi(h)j(e)nya Koj(e)a Pshew'ew(n)ch - Upper Chamois Pass - 2137 metres).- View labelled image.
Mały Kozi Wierch, Zamarła Turnia, and the moraine of Pusta Dolinka (Poosta Doleenka - Empty Little Valley).
The boulder perched on Zmarzła Przełęcz, at the top of a 90 metre cliff.
Highlighting the two Kozi passes. Kozia Przełęcz is the hardest part of any tourist trail in Tatry, consisting of a 40 metre fixed laddered climb on a narrow ridge, and a steep climb up the other side. This is where tourists die - or at least, they die at the bottom below it. Enough tourists have died that the park authorities have made the trail one-way only, towards Kozi Wierch.
The lower part of the hanging valley Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich (Doleena Pee'ew(n)choo Stavoof Polskeeh - Valley of the Five Polish Lakes - normally referred to as "Five Lakes"). The two big lakes are Wielki Staw Polski and Czarny Staw Polski (Charni(h) Staf Polskee - Black Polish Lake), with Mały Staw Polski (Mawi(h) Staf Polskee - Little Polish lake) being invisible to the left of Wielki Staw Polski, and Przedni Staw Polski (Pshedny'ee Staf Polskee - Front Polish Lake) more easily seen beyond it. The main ridge is Opalony Wierch (Opaloni(h) Vee'erh), Miedziane, Szpiglasowy Wierch, Wyżni Liptowski Kostur, Niżni Liptowski Kostur, and Kotelnica. The ridge behind is Koprowy Wierch (Koprovi(h) Vee'erh - 2363 metres). Behind that is Szczyrbski Szczyt (Shchi(h)rbskee Shchi(h)t - 2381 metres) and the Hruby Wierch (Hroobi(h) Vee'erh - 2428 metres) ridge.
The end of the Five Lakes valley, with a tremendous panorama. The lake is Zadni Staw Polski (Zadnyee Staf Polskee - Rear Polish Lake). Mountains from left to right are Gładki Wierch, Walentkowa (Val'entkova - 2156 metres) with its 100 metre wall, Świnica (2301 metres), Gąsienicowa Turnia (Go(n)sheny'eetsova Toornia - 2285 metres), Niebieska Turnia (Nyebee'eska Toornia - Blue Needle - 2261 metres), Zawratowa Turnia (Zavratova Toornia - Zawrat's Needle - 2247 metres), and the edge of Mały Kozi Wierch. Between Zawratowa Turnia and Mały Kozi Wierch is the pass of Zawrat (Zavrat - 2159 metres). To the right of Gładki Wierch is Gładka Przełęcz, the pass that we would return over at the end of this walk, down the zigzag path.- View labelled image.
The view from Zawrat. The mountain to the left is Kołowa Czuba, with the ridge of Kotelnica, Gładki Wierch and Walentkowa in the first ridge, Koprowy Wierch being the second ridge, then the third ridge consisting of Szatan (Shatan - aka Satan - 2422 metres), Szczyrbski Szczyt and Hruby Wierch. Behind the right edge of Hruby Wierch is Krywań (Kri(h)van(y) - 2494 metres).
Chamois on Świnica, with one demonstrating just how well they can climb, effortlessly walking down at 45°.
At this point, we stopped taking pictures, in order to concentrate on the climb (the photo is ... er ... borrowed from another site). The route consists of sections like this, with chains and occational rungs to aid balance or climbing, while the path weaves around over a 300 metre drop. In most places, it would be easily possible to walk or climb without the chains as long as you have proper footwear, and the chains are there for psychological support only, but there are points where they really are a welcome physical support. In winter or for regular tourists, they are essential. With the number of other visitors being quite high, there were occasional queues for use of the chains.
At the top of Świnica, we made a spectacle of ourselves by flying the flags of each other's countries. Since the peak is on the main ridge of Tatry, it is also the border of Poland and Slovakia. I claimed it in the name of Poland.
Finally back below the cloud which was stuck at the height of Zawrat, we had reached the other side of Świnica. In front of us were Hruby Wierch and Krywań, and the High Tatry Foothills.
A little lower, and we could also see Western Tatry and Cicha Dolina (Cheeha Doleena - Silent Valley). Our route would take us to the pass at the start of the boulder slopes of Pośrednia Turnia (Poshrednya Toornia - Middle Needle - 2128 metres), seen to the right here, then down the boulder slopes to pick up an off-trail path in the short valley spanning the bottom of this picture; Dolina Walentkowa (Doleena Val'entkova). Into Slovakia at last.
Dolina Walentkowa. The path runs across this valley, then climbs over the Walentkowa rib into the end of Cicha Dolina. The rib is easily visible from Kasprowy Wierch (Kasprovi(h) Vee'erh - Catastrophy Peak [no, not really]), and the Slovak rangers like to keep watch from there, so we did this part quickly and silently, trying to keep behind various outcrops, while watching a kestrel hunting over the meadows.
Over the ridge, and our breath is taken away by the stunning views that are presented to us. The green ridge peaks are Gładki Wierch and Cichy Wierch (Cheehi(h) Vee'erh - Silent Peak - 1970 metres), seen over Dolina Wierchcicha (Doleena Vee'erh'cheeha - Silent Peak Valley). To the left of Gładki Wierch is the edge of Miedziane. To the right, the front ridge is Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki (Mee'e(w)gooshovee'etskee Shchi(h)t Vee'elkee - 2438 metres) with its 1000 metre drop-off to the Morskie Oko (Morskee'e(h) Oko - Eye of the Sea) lake below, Cubryna (Tsoobri(h)na - 2376 metres) and Koprowy Wierch. Behind that is Hlińska Turnia (Hleen(y)ska Toornia - 2340 metres), Szatan, Szczyrbski Szczyt and Hruby Wierch. Last on the right is Krywań, tallest in this picture.- View labelled image.
This is why I am here. Heaven. Peak after peak. Ridge after ridge. Peak, crag, spire, needle, soaring peak, towering ridge, more crags. The Poles call these jagged ridge formations "teeth" (hence the name of this gallery). Progress along such a ridge for just 100 metres could involve hours of precipitous climbing up, down, traverses, bold steps, more traverses, more climbs. Nature is just unrelenting and dramatic, and Granite is a tough rock that stubbornly refuses to go quietly. A perfect combination.
Kazalnica (Kazalnyeetsa - 2159 metres), one of the smaller peaks behind Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki, has the hardest currently graded climb in Tatry, graded UIAA IX+, YDS 5.13a, UK e7 or 6c, French 8a, Ewbank 29, GDR Xc, Czech too-hard-to-grade, Norwegian 8+, Swedish 8, Finnish 9-, Brazilian 9c. The climb is approximately vertical, and drops 570 metres into the smaller lake of Czarny Staw pod Rysami (Charni(h) Staf pod Ri(h)samee - Black Lake under Rysy).
Szatan, tallest of the Bastions, with Hlińska Turnia to the left, and Szczyrbski Szczyt (on a different ridge) to the right.
Hruby Wierch's main peak may not sit all that high from the ridge, but that does not make the ridge any less dramatic. The drop from the ridge to the valley at any point is about 800 metres of granite wall and scree.
Krywań, national mountain of Slovakia, showing the 1300 metre main face, and stepped arm that repeatedly alternates from easy to extreme climbing.
We had to move on, crossing Dolina Wierchcicha to the trail beside Gładki Wierch. When we reached it, we saw someone walking very quickly up the path. From a distance we could see they were wearing a ranger's hat. We were done for. He must have seen us off-trail and treating us as regular tourists (my caving club membership card would not be much use in a granite area which has no caves, and we were 500 metres into Slovakia without having crossed the border at an official crossing point), had come to take us to a Slovak shelter. Our bags would be stuck on their own in the Polish shelter, and we would have to fetch them the next day. Then to our surprise, he turned out to be a normal walker with a ranger-like hat, who was speed walking into Poland. We followed, slipping over Gładka Przełęcz into Five Lakes, via the zigzag off-trail path. The loud warning calls of marmots didn't help to conceal us. Back at the official trail we took a breather, and some lake pictures. For once, Mały Staw Polski is actually visible, with the ranger's hut beside it.
The good weather had drawn 200 people to the shelter, and it was overflowing. Humans were sleeping everywhere; in the halls, even outside under the eaves. I dread to think what it is like for the New Year's Eve parties, when it has around 500... As an unrelated point, note the graffiti, and wonder what kind of person would come all this way to put that on this shelter.
The next day was blazing hot again, with clear skies. We were committed to leaving though, so we hoisted our packs for one last walk, back down to the valley below. Above towered the ridge beside Kozi Wierch: Buczynowa Strażnica (Boochi(h)nowa Straj(e)n(y)eetsa - 2242 metres), the Granaty (Granati(h) - Garnets), Orla Baszta (Orla Bashta - Bastion of the Eagles - 2177 metres), Buczynowa Turnia (Buchi(h)nova Toornia - 2184 metres), Kopa nad Krzyżnem (Kopa nad Kshi(h)j(e)nem) and Wołoszyn (Vowoshi(h)n - 2155 metres). Our boulder is visible in this picture, if you know where to look.- View labelled image.
Buczynowa Strażnica demonstrating a sublime colour scheme.
Cascades in Roztoka.
Wielka Siklawa (Great Waterfall).
Rainbow in Wielka Siklawa.
We took the waterfall route, probably not such a good idea, since we were faced with the never-ending mule train of humans (or human train of mules). Day trippers who have no concept of how to be polite, or what the mountain etiquette is. British politeness does not work here, unless you never want to move - they will never let you through. Eventually, we just stopped caring, and walked without stopping - after all, our packs made us much heavier than them, so it gave us an advantage. The Dolina Roztoki (Doleena Roztokee) valley is about 3 km long, and was a never ending chain of humans. "How far is it?" their children ask, again, and again, and again. "Far!"
The tourist spot, where I managed to get a picture with only 6 people in it!
Finally joining the main trail through the Dolina Białej Wody (Doleena Bee'aw'ey Wodi(h) - White-water Valley), which later becomes Dolina Białki (Doleena Beeawkee), and another tourist Mecca. Unprecedented volumes of tourists take busses and cars here, so that they can walk the 9 km of old broken tarmac (which many people hate, so it is being left to decay) under the trees to the Morskie Oko lake. Once there, they have their picnic along with the droves of other tourists, then turn around and walk the 9 km back again. What a warped idea of visiting the mountains. The flow of humans was broken only by the horse carts for those too lazy to walk, prefering to be pulled behind in the stench of sweaty horses. On the route, there are two views before the lake; this one is Czerwona Skałka (Chervona Skawka - 1372 metres), a Northern High Tatry foothill.
The other (much better) view. The furthest ridge on the left is Gerlach (Gerlah - 2655 metres, tallest in Tatry and the Carpathians), Batyżowiecki Szczyt (Bati(h)j(e)ovee'etski Shchi(h)t - 2448 metres) behind the tree, Kaczy Szczyt (Kachi(h) Shchi(h)t - 2401 metres) just beside the tree, and Zmarzły Szczyt (Zmaj(e)wy Shchi(h)t - 2396 metres) as the spire near the end. The ridge to the right is Młynarz (Mwi(h)narj(e) - The Miller - 2170 metres), ending at the edge of Żabi Szczyt Wyżni (J(e)abee Shchi(h)t Wi(h)j(e)nyee - 2259 metres). In the background of the Młynarz ridge is the small peak of Ciężka Turnia (Chewj(e)ka Toornia - 2254 metres), and behind that are the three peaks of Smoczy Szczyt (Smochi(h) Shchi(h)t - 2523 metres), Wysoka (Vi(h)so'ka - High - 2547 metres) and Ciężki Szczyt (Chewj(e)kee Shchi(h)t - 2500 metres).
Gerlach and Batyżowiecki Szczyt.
Młynarz (The Miller), with the spike of Nawiesista Turnia (Navee'eseesta Toornia - 1830 metres) on its left, then the tremendous 500 metre drop-off from Młynarczyk (Mwi(h)narchi(h)k - The Little Millar - 1785 metres) to the valley below.
We were down to just about nothing. Enough money for the trip to Warszawa, but not much more. Our food supplies could last a small while, but we had given away the gas we would need to cook it. With bags a little over 15 kg, we caught the bus to Zakopane, looking at the impressive fleeting panoramas of the entire Tatry range from the bus. This was goodbye.
Despite the nearly three days of rain that preceded it, the day unexpectedly started with clear skies and blazing sunshine. OK, so this picture was actually taken in the evening, but shh. Over Przedni Staw Polski is the main ridge of Miedziane (Mee'edja'ne - Copper - 2233 metres), followed by Szpiglasowy Wierch (Shpeeglasovi(h) Vee'erh - 2172 metres), then the double bump of Wyżni Liptowski Kostur (Vi(h)j(e)nyee Leeptofskee Kostoor - 2083 metres) and Niżni Liptowski Kostur (Nyeej(e)nyee Leeptofskee Kostoor - 2055 metres), and the ridge of Kotelnica.
The other side of the valley started cloudy, but the cloud soon lifted and settled on the other side of the ridge. We decided to make the most of the unexpected opportunity, and climb Kozi Wierch (Koj(e)ee Vee'erh - Chamois Peak), once we made the sensible move of booking ourselves in to the shelter early - a change of rooms, but a room at least.
No doubt a very cliché picture, but that doesn't stop it being beautiful. The outflow from Wielki Staw Polski (Vee'elkee Staf Polskee - Great Polish Lake), with Wyżni Liptowski Kostur, Niżni Liptowski Kostur, the ridge of Kotelnica, and Gładki Wierch (Gwadkee Vee'erh - Smooth Peak - 2065 metres).
Approaching the base of the Kozi mountain. The walk up Kozi is fairly short, and the peak seemed to be constantly enveloped in the remaining cloud. Since a walk in the clouds didn't seem like a fun idea (and was a very predictable film), the plan was changed to climbing the nearby Świnica (Shveeneetsa - sharp/pig peak).
The amphitheatre of Kozi. From left to right: Kołowa Czuba (Kowova Chooba - 2105 metres), Mały Kozi Wierch (Mawi(h) Koj(e)ee Vee'erh - Little Chamois Peak - 2228 metres), Zamarła Turnia (Zamarwa Toornia - Frozen With Terror Needle - 2179 metres), Kozie Czuby (Koj(e)e Choobi(h) - Chamois Crags - 2266 metres) and Kozi Wierch (2291 metres) partly hidden in the clouds behind a crag. Between Mały Kozi Wierch and Zamarła Turnia are the Zamarłe Turnie (Zamarwe Toornee'e) outcrops then Zmarzła Przełęcz (Zamaj(e)wa Pshew'ew(n)ch - Frozen Pass - 2126 metres), between Zamarła Turnia and Kozie Czuby is Kozia Przełęcz (Koj(e)a Pshew'ew(n)ch - Chamois Pass - 2137 metres), and between Kozie Czuby and Kozi Wierch is Wyżnia Kozia Przełęcz (Vi(h)j(e)nya Koj(e)a Pshew'ew(n)ch - Upper Chamois Pass - 2137 metres).
Mały Kozi Wierch, Zamarła Turnia, and the moraine of Pusta Dolinka (Poosta Doleenka - Empty Little Valley).
The boulder perched on Zmarzła Przełęcz, at the top of a 90 metre cliff.
Highlighting the two Kozi passes. Kozia Przełęcz is the hardest part of any tourist trail in Tatry, consisting of a 40 metre fixed laddered climb on a narrow ridge, and a steep climb up the other side. This is where tourists die - or at least, they die at the bottom below it. Enough tourists have died that the park authorities have made the trail one-way only, towards Kozi Wierch.
The lower part of the hanging valley Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich (Doleena Pee'ew(n)choo Stavoof Polskeeh - Valley of the Five Polish Lakes - normally referred to as "Five Lakes"). The two big lakes are Wielki Staw Polski and Czarny Staw Polski (Charni(h) Staf Polskee - Black Polish Lake), with Mały Staw Polski (Mawi(h) Staf Polskee - Little Polish lake) being invisible to the left of Wielki Staw Polski, and Przedni Staw Polski (Pshedny'ee Staf Polskee - Front Polish Lake) more easily seen beyond it. The main ridge is Opalony Wierch (Opaloni(h) Vee'erh), Miedziane, Szpiglasowy Wierch, Wyżni Liptowski Kostur, Niżni Liptowski Kostur, and Kotelnica. The ridge behind is Koprowy Wierch (Koprovi(h) Vee'erh - 2363 metres). Behind that is Szczyrbski Szczyt (Shchi(h)rbskee Shchi(h)t - 2381 metres) and the Hruby Wierch (Hroobi(h) Vee'erh - 2428 metres) ridge.
The end of the Five Lakes valley, with a tremendous panorama. The lake is Zadni Staw Polski (Zadnyee Staf Polskee - Rear Polish Lake). Mountains from left to right are Gładki Wierch, Walentkowa (Val'entkova - 2156 metres) with its 100 metre wall, Świnica (2301 metres), Gąsienicowa Turnia (Go(n)sheny'eetsova Toornia - 2285 metres), Niebieska Turnia (Nyebee'eska Toornia - Blue Needle - 2261 metres), Zawratowa Turnia (Zavratova Toornia - Zawrat's Needle - 2247 metres), and the edge of Mały Kozi Wierch. Between Zawratowa Turnia and Mały Kozi Wierch is the pass of Zawrat (Zavrat - 2159 metres). To the right of Gładki Wierch is Gładka Przełęcz, the pass that we would return over at the end of this walk, down the zigzag path.
The view from Zawrat. The mountain to the left is Kołowa Czuba, with the ridge of Kotelnica, Gładki Wierch and Walentkowa in the first ridge, Koprowy Wierch being the second ridge, then the third ridge consisting of Szatan (Shatan - aka Satan - 2422 metres), Szczyrbski Szczyt and Hruby Wierch. Behind the right edge of Hruby Wierch is Krywań (Kri(h)van(y) - 2494 metres).
Chamois on Świnica, with one demonstrating just how well they can climb, effortlessly walking down at 45°.
At this point, we stopped taking pictures, in order to concentrate on the climb (the photo is ... er ... borrowed from another site). The route consists of sections like this, with chains and occational rungs to aid balance or climbing, while the path weaves around over a 300 metre drop. In most places, it would be easily possible to walk or climb without the chains as long as you have proper footwear, and the chains are there for psychological support only, but there are points where they really are a welcome physical support. In winter or for regular tourists, they are essential. With the number of other visitors being quite high, there were occasional queues for use of the chains.
At the top of Świnica, we made a spectacle of ourselves by flying the flags of each other's countries. Since the peak is on the main ridge of Tatry, it is also the border of Poland and Slovakia. I claimed it in the name of Poland.
Finally back below the cloud which was stuck at the height of Zawrat, we had reached the other side of Świnica. In front of us were Hruby Wierch and Krywań, and the High Tatry Foothills.
A little lower, and we could also see Western Tatry and Cicha Dolina (Cheeha Doleena - Silent Valley). Our route would take us to the pass at the start of the boulder slopes of Pośrednia Turnia (Poshrednya Toornia - Middle Needle - 2128 metres), seen to the right here, then down the boulder slopes to pick up an off-trail path in the short valley spanning the bottom of this picture; Dolina Walentkowa (Doleena Val'entkova). Into Slovakia at last.
Dolina Walentkowa. The path runs across this valley, then climbs over the Walentkowa rib into the end of Cicha Dolina. The rib is easily visible from Kasprowy Wierch (Kasprovi(h) Vee'erh - Catastrophy Peak [no, not really]), and the Slovak rangers like to keep watch from there, so we did this part quickly and silently, trying to keep behind various outcrops, while watching a kestrel hunting over the meadows.
Over the ridge, and our breath is taken away by the stunning views that are presented to us. The green ridge peaks are Gładki Wierch and Cichy Wierch (Cheehi(h) Vee'erh - Silent Peak - 1970 metres), seen over Dolina Wierchcicha (Doleena Vee'erh'cheeha - Silent Peak Valley). To the left of Gładki Wierch is the edge of Miedziane. To the right, the front ridge is Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki (Mee'e(w)gooshovee'etskee Shchi(h)t Vee'elkee - 2438 metres) with its 1000 metre drop-off to the Morskie Oko (Morskee'e(h) Oko - Eye of the Sea) lake below, Cubryna (Tsoobri(h)na - 2376 metres) and Koprowy Wierch. Behind that is Hlińska Turnia (Hleen(y)ska Toornia - 2340 metres), Szatan, Szczyrbski Szczyt and Hruby Wierch. Last on the right is Krywań, tallest in this picture.
This is why I am here. Heaven. Peak after peak. Ridge after ridge. Peak, crag, spire, needle, soaring peak, towering ridge, more crags. The Poles call these jagged ridge formations "teeth" (hence the name of this gallery). Progress along such a ridge for just 100 metres could involve hours of precipitous climbing up, down, traverses, bold steps, more traverses, more climbs. Nature is just unrelenting and dramatic, and Granite is a tough rock that stubbornly refuses to go quietly. A perfect combination.
Kazalnica (Kazalnyeetsa - 2159 metres), one of the smaller peaks behind Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki, has the hardest currently graded climb in Tatry, graded UIAA IX+, YDS 5.13a, UK e7 or 6c, French 8a, Ewbank 29, GDR Xc, Czech too-hard-to-grade, Norwegian 8+, Swedish 8, Finnish 9-, Brazilian 9c. The climb is approximately vertical, and drops 570 metres into the smaller lake of Czarny Staw pod Rysami (Charni(h) Staf pod Ri(h)samee - Black Lake under Rysy).
Szatan, tallest of the Bastions, with Hlińska Turnia to the left, and Szczyrbski Szczyt (on a different ridge) to the right.
Hruby Wierch's main peak may not sit all that high from the ridge, but that does not make the ridge any less dramatic. The drop from the ridge to the valley at any point is about 800 metres of granite wall and scree.
Krywań, national mountain of Slovakia, showing the 1300 metre main face, and stepped arm that repeatedly alternates from easy to extreme climbing.
We had to move on, crossing Dolina Wierchcicha to the trail beside Gładki Wierch. When we reached it, we saw someone walking very quickly up the path. From a distance we could see they were wearing a ranger's hat. We were done for. He must have seen us off-trail and treating us as regular tourists (my caving club membership card would not be much use in a granite area which has no caves, and we were 500 metres into Slovakia without having crossed the border at an official crossing point), had come to take us to a Slovak shelter. Our bags would be stuck on their own in the Polish shelter, and we would have to fetch them the next day. Then to our surprise, he turned out to be a normal walker with a ranger-like hat, who was speed walking into Poland. We followed, slipping over Gładka Przełęcz into Five Lakes, via the zigzag off-trail path. The loud warning calls of marmots didn't help to conceal us. Back at the official trail we took a breather, and some lake pictures. For once, Mały Staw Polski is actually visible, with the ranger's hut beside it.
The good weather had drawn 200 people to the shelter, and it was overflowing. Humans were sleeping everywhere; in the halls, even outside under the eaves. I dread to think what it is like for the New Year's Eve parties, when it has around 500... As an unrelated point, note the graffiti, and wonder what kind of person would come all this way to put that on this shelter.
The next day was blazing hot again, with clear skies. We were committed to leaving though, so we hoisted our packs for one last walk, back down to the valley below. Above towered the ridge beside Kozi Wierch: Buczynowa Strażnica (Boochi(h)nowa Straj(e)n(y)eetsa - 2242 metres), the Granaty (Granati(h) - Garnets), Orla Baszta (Orla Bashta - Bastion of the Eagles - 2177 metres), Buczynowa Turnia (Buchi(h)nova Toornia - 2184 metres), Kopa nad Krzyżnem (Kopa nad Kshi(h)j(e)nem) and Wołoszyn (Vowoshi(h)n - 2155 metres). Our boulder is visible in this picture, if you know where to look.
Buczynowa Strażnica demonstrating a sublime colour scheme.
Cascades in Roztoka.
Wielka Siklawa (Great Waterfall).
Rainbow in Wielka Siklawa.
We took the waterfall route, probably not such a good idea, since we were faced with the never-ending mule train of humans (or human train of mules). Day trippers who have no concept of how to be polite, or what the mountain etiquette is. British politeness does not work here, unless you never want to move - they will never let you through. Eventually, we just stopped caring, and walked without stopping - after all, our packs made us much heavier than them, so it gave us an advantage. The Dolina Roztoki (Doleena Roztokee) valley is about 3 km long, and was a never ending chain of humans. "How far is it?" their children ask, again, and again, and again. "Far!"
The tourist spot, where I managed to get a picture with only 6 people in it!
Finally joining the main trail through the Dolina Białej Wody (Doleena Bee'aw'ey Wodi(h) - White-water Valley), which later becomes Dolina Białki (Doleena Beeawkee), and another tourist Mecca. Unprecedented volumes of tourists take busses and cars here, so that they can walk the 9 km of old broken tarmac (which many people hate, so it is being left to decay) under the trees to the Morskie Oko lake. Once there, they have their picnic along with the droves of other tourists, then turn around and walk the 9 km back again. What a warped idea of visiting the mountains. The flow of humans was broken only by the horse carts for those too lazy to walk, prefering to be pulled behind in the stench of sweaty horses. On the route, there are two views before the lake; this one is Czerwona Skałka (Chervona Skawka - 1372 metres), a Northern High Tatry foothill.
The other (much better) view. The furthest ridge on the left is Gerlach (Gerlah - 2655 metres, tallest in Tatry and the Carpathians), Batyżowiecki Szczyt (Bati(h)j(e)ovee'etski Shchi(h)t - 2448 metres) behind the tree, Kaczy Szczyt (Kachi(h) Shchi(h)t - 2401 metres) just beside the tree, and Zmarzły Szczyt (Zmaj(e)wy Shchi(h)t - 2396 metres) as the spire near the end. The ridge to the right is Młynarz (Mwi(h)narj(e) - The Miller - 2170 metres), ending at the edge of Żabi Szczyt Wyżni (J(e)abee Shchi(h)t Wi(h)j(e)nyee - 2259 metres). In the background of the Młynarz ridge is the small peak of Ciężka Turnia (Chewj(e)ka Toornia - 2254 metres), and behind that are the three peaks of Smoczy Szczyt (Smochi(h) Shchi(h)t - 2523 metres), Wysoka (Vi(h)so'ka - High - 2547 metres) and Ciężki Szczyt (Chewj(e)kee Shchi(h)t - 2500 metres).
Gerlach and Batyżowiecki Szczyt.
Młynarz (The Miller), with the spike of Nawiesista Turnia (Navee'eseesta Toornia - 1830 metres) on its left, then the tremendous 500 metre drop-off from Młynarczyk (Mwi(h)narchi(h)k - The Little Millar - 1785 metres) to the valley below.