Traversing the Red Peaks
The passage from Western Tatry to High Tatry.
The early morning clouds hanging on Bystra (Bi(h)stra) and Starorobociański (Starro'(ro)bochan(y)skee).
Sunrise on Kominiarski (Komeenee'arskee).
The combined tops of the escape route and thirteen barriers routes from the canyon.
As we reach the path up Ciemniak (Chemniak), the fog settles below the summits, and it begins to rain. The way on is up through it, so the camera needs to go away soon to protect it from the water. We don coats.
Crags in Dolina Mułowa (Doleena Moowova), filled with caves. This is the main caving area within Tatry, containing all the longest and deepest caves, nearly three times as deep as anything in Britain, but only 20 km long. Potholers' heaven.
Chamois (Kozica - Koj(e)eetsa - in Polish), like mountain goats, but extremely good climbers, second only to the ibex. They are better at climbing than most mountain walkers, and can be found on some of the most unlikely places in the mountains, where tourists struggle to climb. Respect them.
Głazista Turnia (Gwaj(e)eesta Toornia - about 1925 metres), on the ridge to Tomanowa (Tomanova). The border passes from Tomanowa, through Głazista Turnia, and onto Ciemniak. From here, we follow the border along Czerwone Wierchy (Chervon'e Vee'erhi(h) - The Red Peaks, named after their red soil), of which Ciemniak is the first.
The cloud lifts for long enough for us to see the entire High Tatry Foothills. These are completely off limits as a nature reserve - even those who dare to live and walk in the wild rarely dare to cross these, as they can always be easily seen by rangers. In the back plane are Cichy Wierch (Cheehi(h) Vee'erh - Silent Peak - 1970 metres), Zadnia Rycerowa Kopa (Zadny'a Ri(h)tserova Kopa - 1956 metres), Zadnia Garajowa Kopa (Zadny'a Garay'ova Kopa - 1951 metres), Wielka Garajowa Kopa (Vee'elka Garay'ova Kopa - 1979 metres), Wielka Kopa Koprowa (Vee'elka Kopa Koprova - 2052 metres, highest in the High Tatry Foothills, though it can be deceptive from some angles), Zadný Holý Vrch (1979 metres), Krajný Holý Vrch (1984 metres) and Krzyżne Liptowskie (Kshi(h)j(e)ne Leeptofskee'e - 2039 metres, but often looks like it is the tallest). In the front planes are Rycerowa Kopa (Ri(h)tserova Kopa - 1902 metres), Vel'ká Brdárová grapa (1859 metres), Malá Brdárová grapa (1814 metres) and Bradarowa Dzwonnica (Bradarova Dzvon'nyeetsa - 1713 metres).- View labelled image.
The wall of Krzesanica (Kshesa'ny'eetsa - 2122 metres), with Małołączniak (Ma'wowo(n)chny'ak - 2095 metres [or 2096 to the top of the cairn]) in the background, the second and third red peaks. Krzesanica's name is a highlander word meaning "carved with axes", due to the 300 metre high amphitheatre of limestone cliffs. Małołączniak is a great place to get lost in the fog, as the path turns a corner, making a junction very confusing. Go wrong, fall of cliff. Małołączniak is also the mountain with most of the caves.
Unstable cliffs on Krzesanica.
Looking from Mułowa Przełęcz (Moowova Pshew'ew(n)ch) into Dolina Mułowa. Then the clouds lowered again, and we disappeared for three summits.
Giewont (Gee'evont - 1894 metres) as seen from the far side of Kondracka Kopa (Kondratska Kopa - 2005 metres), with the peak to the left, and ridge to the right. The peak has a large metal cross on the top, which serves to catch lightning for electrocuting tourists, as well as attracting pilgrimages. The name Giewont approximates to "sacrificial mountain whose sole purpose is to draw the uninitiated away from the proper mountains".
The eastern ridge of Długi Giewont (Dwoogee Gee'evont), the ridge summit beside Giewont.
For a moment, the cloud lifts on the other side of the ridge, to allow us to see Rozpadła Dolinka (Rozpadwa Doleenka - broken apart valley).
Cicha Dolina (Cheeha Doleena - Silent Valley), a classic U-shaped glacial valley, separating the High Tatry Foothills on the left, from Western Tatry on the right.
On the ridge connecting Western and High Tatry. These rock outcrops are the hardest part of this entire path, where the path passes over rocky ground. Those of you riding donkeys (you know who you are) must dismount, and actually touch the rock yourselves. Biggest scramble is about 3 metres.
Mouse trap.
Goryczkowa Czuba (Gori(h)chkova Chooba - 1913 metres), looking towards the Red Peaks, showing the route we have walked.
The head of the Silent Valley, in High Tatry, with the obvious double peak on the left being Świnica (Shveeneetsa - sharp/pig peak - 2301 metres).
Peering over the clouds on the left are the ridge of Szatan (Shatan - aka Satan - 2422 metres) on the left, with Szczyrbski Szczyt (Shchi(h)rbskee Shchi(h)t - 2381 metres) in front of it (looking like part of the same range). On the right is the ridge of Hruby Wierch (Hroobi(h) Vee'erh - 2428 metres). Below them are Gładki Wierch (Gwadkee Vee'erh - Smooth Peak - 2065 metres) on the left, and Cichy Wierch on the right.
Krywań (Kri(h)van(y) - 2494 metres), the national mountain of Slovakia, and highest mountain in this part of High Tatry. The main face (visible mainly from Poland - the parts facing Slovakia are actually quite boring) is about 1300 metres high as a single face, beginning vertical, then slowly levelling to the valley floor. The obvious stepped ridge is the arm of Krywań.
Kasprowy Wierch (Kasprovi(h) Vee'erh - 1987 metres), Beskid (Beskeed - 2012 metres) and Świnica. The pass between Beskid and Świnica is Liliowe (Leeleeove(h) - Lilac), and marks the end of Western Tatry, and start of High Tatry. Kasprowy sounds so much like catastrophy that they decided to make it one. As well as being covered by ski lifts as part of the winter ski resort, and having a cable car to allow those who are not willing to invest effort to see the views, it has a MacDonalds on the top. In this beautiful landscape, a mountain is desecrated by putting a fast food restaurant on the top. Cable cars I understand, after all, I have been to enough of the Alps to get used to them. But honestly, if you need MacDonalds in order to feel comfortable on a mountain, you should get off them, you do not belong here. Anyway ... we had lost a water bottle somewhere in the climb up the gorge the day before, and would need a replacement for our trips in High Tatry. Add to that the fact that our bag of rubbish was getting bigger and smellier by the day. We planned to stop off at the shop on Kasprowy to deal with these, but it was closed for repairs. So we were forced to lose our height and head down to the nearby shelter, where we decided we would stay for the night, before returning the day after to cross Świnica into High Tatry. It was too late to cross Świnica tonight anyway.
Just beyond Kasprowy, the sudden change in scenery shows what the dramatic landscape of High Tatry is all about. Ridge upon ridge of jagged granite, and sheer rock faces over 500 metres high. Three ridges are visible here, from left to right: Far ridge; Koszysta (Koshi(h)sta - 2193 metres). Middle ridge; Żółta Turnia (J(e)oowta Toornia - Yellow Needle - 2087 metres), Wierch pod Fajki (Vee'erh pod Faykee - Summit Under the Pipe - 2124 metres), Skrajny Granat (Skrayni(h) Granat - Front Garnet - 2225 metres), Pośredni Granat (Poshrednee Granat - Middle Garnet - 2234 metres) and Zadni Granat (Zadn(y)ee Granat - Rear Garnet - 2240 metres). Front ridge; Kościelec (Koshchelets - Church Spire - 2155 metres), Zadni Kościelec (Zadn(y)ee Koshchelets - Rear Church Spire - 2162 metres), Kozi Wierch (Koj(e)ee Vee'erh - Chamois Peak - 2291 metres) peering over the ridge, Zawratowa Turnia (Zavratova Toornia - Zawrat's Needle - 2247 metres), Niebieska Turnia (Nyebee'eska Toornia - Blue Needle - 2261 metres), Gąsienicowa Turnia (Go(n)sheny'eetsova Toornia - 2285 metres) and Świnica (2301 metres).- View labelled image.
Wierch pod Fajski and the Granat (garnet) peaks.
400 metres of couloir.
Ridges and ridges. Between the Granat and Kościelec ridges is the main part of the Dolina Gąsienicowa (Doleena Go(n)shenyeecova).
Kościelec, Zadni Kościelec and Kozi Wierch, up close and personal.
Dwoisty Staw (Dvo'eesti(h) Staf).
The amphetheatre of mountains around Świnica. You may be wondering how they determine what is a summit, and what is not. The rule is quite simple; if there is 30 metres or more of height difference between a peak, and the highest pass that connects it to a higher peak, then it is a summit in its own right.
We got to the shelter, and Moose had the two pints - sorry, two half-litres - of beer with rasberry juice that he had been craving all evening. On an empty stomach, you can imagine the result. We tried to stay at the shelter, but it turned out to be a hotel that pretends to be a shelter. No reservation, no room, and they would rather send you out into the night with nothing but the bears for company, than let you sleep in the halls. As we looked for a nice flat patch of kosówka (kosoofka) in Dolina Gąsienicowa, it began to rain. So we returned to the edge of the spruce forest, and found some trees to bivouac under as night closed in. The trees kept off some of the rain, and we were woken early by the sound of pine cones falling from the trees, and landing around our heads. Since we were in bear country, I was on the alert for bears, and mistook the thuds of pine cones for the approaching paws of a bear. Woke me up quite quickly, at least.
The early morning clouds hanging on Bystra (Bi(h)stra) and Starorobociański (Starro'(ro)bochan(y)skee).
Sunrise on Kominiarski (Komeenee'arskee).
The combined tops of the escape route and thirteen barriers routes from the canyon.
As we reach the path up Ciemniak (Chemniak), the fog settles below the summits, and it begins to rain. The way on is up through it, so the camera needs to go away soon to protect it from the water. We don coats.
Crags in Dolina Mułowa (Doleena Moowova), filled with caves. This is the main caving area within Tatry, containing all the longest and deepest caves, nearly three times as deep as anything in Britain, but only 20 km long. Potholers' heaven.
Chamois (Kozica - Koj(e)eetsa - in Polish), like mountain goats, but extremely good climbers, second only to the ibex. They are better at climbing than most mountain walkers, and can be found on some of the most unlikely places in the mountains, where tourists struggle to climb. Respect them.
Głazista Turnia (Gwaj(e)eesta Toornia - about 1925 metres), on the ridge to Tomanowa (Tomanova). The border passes from Tomanowa, through Głazista Turnia, and onto Ciemniak. From here, we follow the border along Czerwone Wierchy (Chervon'e Vee'erhi(h) - The Red Peaks, named after their red soil), of which Ciemniak is the first.
The cloud lifts for long enough for us to see the entire High Tatry Foothills. These are completely off limits as a nature reserve - even those who dare to live and walk in the wild rarely dare to cross these, as they can always be easily seen by rangers. In the back plane are Cichy Wierch (Cheehi(h) Vee'erh - Silent Peak - 1970 metres), Zadnia Rycerowa Kopa (Zadny'a Ri(h)tserova Kopa - 1956 metres), Zadnia Garajowa Kopa (Zadny'a Garay'ova Kopa - 1951 metres), Wielka Garajowa Kopa (Vee'elka Garay'ova Kopa - 1979 metres), Wielka Kopa Koprowa (Vee'elka Kopa Koprova - 2052 metres, highest in the High Tatry Foothills, though it can be deceptive from some angles), Zadný Holý Vrch (1979 metres), Krajný Holý Vrch (1984 metres) and Krzyżne Liptowskie (Kshi(h)j(e)ne Leeptofskee'e - 2039 metres, but often looks like it is the tallest). In the front planes are Rycerowa Kopa (Ri(h)tserova Kopa - 1902 metres), Vel'ká Brdárová grapa (1859 metres), Malá Brdárová grapa (1814 metres) and Bradarowa Dzwonnica (Bradarova Dzvon'nyeetsa - 1713 metres).
The wall of Krzesanica (Kshesa'ny'eetsa - 2122 metres), with Małołączniak (Ma'wowo(n)chny'ak - 2095 metres [or 2096 to the top of the cairn]) in the background, the second and third red peaks. Krzesanica's name is a highlander word meaning "carved with axes", due to the 300 metre high amphitheatre of limestone cliffs. Małołączniak is a great place to get lost in the fog, as the path turns a corner, making a junction very confusing. Go wrong, fall of cliff. Małołączniak is also the mountain with most of the caves.
Unstable cliffs on Krzesanica.
Looking from Mułowa Przełęcz (Moowova Pshew'ew(n)ch) into Dolina Mułowa. Then the clouds lowered again, and we disappeared for three summits.
Giewont (Gee'evont - 1894 metres) as seen from the far side of Kondracka Kopa (Kondratska Kopa - 2005 metres), with the peak to the left, and ridge to the right. The peak has a large metal cross on the top, which serves to catch lightning for electrocuting tourists, as well as attracting pilgrimages. The name Giewont approximates to "sacrificial mountain whose sole purpose is to draw the uninitiated away from the proper mountains".
The eastern ridge of Długi Giewont (Dwoogee Gee'evont), the ridge summit beside Giewont.
For a moment, the cloud lifts on the other side of the ridge, to allow us to see Rozpadła Dolinka (Rozpadwa Doleenka - broken apart valley).
Cicha Dolina (Cheeha Doleena - Silent Valley), a classic U-shaped glacial valley, separating the High Tatry Foothills on the left, from Western Tatry on the right.
On the ridge connecting Western and High Tatry. These rock outcrops are the hardest part of this entire path, where the path passes over rocky ground. Those of you riding donkeys (you know who you are) must dismount, and actually touch the rock yourselves. Biggest scramble is about 3 metres.
Mouse trap.
Goryczkowa Czuba (Gori(h)chkova Chooba - 1913 metres), looking towards the Red Peaks, showing the route we have walked.
The head of the Silent Valley, in High Tatry, with the obvious double peak on the left being Świnica (Shveeneetsa - sharp/pig peak - 2301 metres).
Peering over the clouds on the left are the ridge of Szatan (Shatan - aka Satan - 2422 metres) on the left, with Szczyrbski Szczyt (Shchi(h)rbskee Shchi(h)t - 2381 metres) in front of it (looking like part of the same range). On the right is the ridge of Hruby Wierch (Hroobi(h) Vee'erh - 2428 metres). Below them are Gładki Wierch (Gwadkee Vee'erh - Smooth Peak - 2065 metres) on the left, and Cichy Wierch on the right.
Krywań (Kri(h)van(y) - 2494 metres), the national mountain of Slovakia, and highest mountain in this part of High Tatry. The main face (visible mainly from Poland - the parts facing Slovakia are actually quite boring) is about 1300 metres high as a single face, beginning vertical, then slowly levelling to the valley floor. The obvious stepped ridge is the arm of Krywań.
Kasprowy Wierch (Kasprovi(h) Vee'erh - 1987 metres), Beskid (Beskeed - 2012 metres) and Świnica. The pass between Beskid and Świnica is Liliowe (Leeleeove(h) - Lilac), and marks the end of Western Tatry, and start of High Tatry. Kasprowy sounds so much like catastrophy that they decided to make it one. As well as being covered by ski lifts as part of the winter ski resort, and having a cable car to allow those who are not willing to invest effort to see the views, it has a MacDonalds on the top. In this beautiful landscape, a mountain is desecrated by putting a fast food restaurant on the top. Cable cars I understand, after all, I have been to enough of the Alps to get used to them. But honestly, if you need MacDonalds in order to feel comfortable on a mountain, you should get off them, you do not belong here. Anyway ... we had lost a water bottle somewhere in the climb up the gorge the day before, and would need a replacement for our trips in High Tatry. Add to that the fact that our bag of rubbish was getting bigger and smellier by the day. We planned to stop off at the shop on Kasprowy to deal with these, but it was closed for repairs. So we were forced to lose our height and head down to the nearby shelter, where we decided we would stay for the night, before returning the day after to cross Świnica into High Tatry. It was too late to cross Świnica tonight anyway.
Just beyond Kasprowy, the sudden change in scenery shows what the dramatic landscape of High Tatry is all about. Ridge upon ridge of jagged granite, and sheer rock faces over 500 metres high. Three ridges are visible here, from left to right: Far ridge; Koszysta (Koshi(h)sta - 2193 metres). Middle ridge; Żółta Turnia (J(e)oowta Toornia - Yellow Needle - 2087 metres), Wierch pod Fajki (Vee'erh pod Faykee - Summit Under the Pipe - 2124 metres), Skrajny Granat (Skrayni(h) Granat - Front Garnet - 2225 metres), Pośredni Granat (Poshrednee Granat - Middle Garnet - 2234 metres) and Zadni Granat (Zadn(y)ee Granat - Rear Garnet - 2240 metres). Front ridge; Kościelec (Koshchelets - Church Spire - 2155 metres), Zadni Kościelec (Zadn(y)ee Koshchelets - Rear Church Spire - 2162 metres), Kozi Wierch (Koj(e)ee Vee'erh - Chamois Peak - 2291 metres) peering over the ridge, Zawratowa Turnia (Zavratova Toornia - Zawrat's Needle - 2247 metres), Niebieska Turnia (Nyebee'eska Toornia - Blue Needle - 2261 metres), Gąsienicowa Turnia (Go(n)sheny'eetsova Toornia - 2285 metres) and Świnica (2301 metres).
Wierch pod Fajski and the Granat (garnet) peaks.
400 metres of couloir.
Ridges and ridges. Between the Granat and Kościelec ridges is the main part of the Dolina Gąsienicowa (Doleena Go(n)shenyeecova).
Kościelec, Zadni Kościelec and Kozi Wierch, up close and personal.
Dwoisty Staw (Dvo'eesti(h) Staf).
The amphetheatre of mountains around Świnica. You may be wondering how they determine what is a summit, and what is not. The rule is quite simple; if there is 30 metres or more of height difference between a peak, and the highest pass that connects it to a higher peak, then it is a summit in its own right.
We got to the shelter, and Moose had the two pints - sorry, two half-litres - of beer with rasberry juice that he had been craving all evening. On an empty stomach, you can imagine the result. We tried to stay at the shelter, but it turned out to be a hotel that pretends to be a shelter. No reservation, no room, and they would rather send you out into the night with nothing but the bears for company, than let you sleep in the halls. As we looked for a nice flat patch of kosówka (kosoofka) in Dolina Gąsienicowa, it began to rain. So we returned to the edge of the spruce forest, and found some trees to bivouac under as night closed in. The trees kept off some of the rain, and we were woken early by the sound of pine cones falling from the trees, and landing around our heads. Since we were in bear country, I was on the alert for bears, and mistook the thuds of pine cones for the approaching paws of a bear. Woke me up quite quickly, at least.