There are several species of tortoise from the hot countries surrounding the Mediterranean, of which the Hermann's tortoise, the Mediterranean spur-thighed tortoise, and the marginated tortoise are the most popular, with the Egyptian/Kleinmann's and Negev/Werner's tortoise being far less common. The popular Horsfield's/Russian tortoise is not actually from the Mediterranean, but is also covered by this guide, since it is kept the same way. In British terminology, they are tortoises, not turtles, as they do not live in water.
Traditionally, these tortoises have been very popular pets, and the Hermann's and spur-thighed tortoises are the ones many people were familiar with as the "garden tortoise". It is important to note, however, that there are no tortoises that are adapted to the British climate, and there are no tortoises that should be kept outside in a garden all year (or all summer), but they may be allowed to use the garden on the days when the British weather provides the tortoise's preferred conditions. All tortoises come from much hotter climates, and Mediterranean tortoises also come from much drier climates. Garden-living is an outdated practice that stems from the days before it was possible to provide better conditions indoors. Tortoise care has changed a lot since the invention of UV lighting, and we now try to replicate their preferred environmental conditions that they would experience in their natural countries.
Tortoises can be one of the most rewarding and charming pet reptiles. They are intelligent enough to recognise and bond with their owners, running over to meet family members, and sometimes shying away from strangers. They may follow family members around the house (or down the street), or demand attention by standing on their owner's feet. Mediterranean tortoises are terrestrial, living on the ground, but also with limited burrowing abilities. They are diurnal (awake during the day), spending most of their time sleeping, basking or running around. Owners are often surprised by how fast a properly warmed tortoise can be, close to their owner's walking speed. Another surprise is their ability to climb a great deal of obstacles, including rocky outcrops, fences and stone walls. They rarely bite humans (except when investigating brightly coloured items like painted nails, to see if they are food, or during breeding season when defending a territory or initiating breeding), but if they do, their beak can produce a painful pinch. In all cases, their shells are just a few cm long when they hatch. They are not normally sold until they are about a year or so old, and at least 6 cm long, so that their legally required microchips can be fitted (or 10 cm long, in the case of larger microchips). This also allows them to grow past their delicate early months.
The Hermann's tortoise can be found in Greece and the surrounding Balkan nations, with variants found in parts of Italy. Adults normally have a shell about 20 cm (8 inches) long - the size of a small plate - but in rare cases can be 30 cm (12 inches) long. The shell is normally a little longer than it is wide. Most of the growth happens in the first 10 years. They are strongly patterned with sharply defined yellow and black markings, which they normally keep for their whole life, though some will fade to black or yellow. They normally have 5 claws on their front feet and 4 claws on their back feet (but some have 4 on the front feet and some have 5 on the back feet), the shell scute over the tail is normally divided in two, with a stitch line down its middle, and the rear part of the plastron is not hinged. They can live for over 70 or 80 years, and estimates range to 100 or 120 years (studies are not complete, since modern approaches to their care have not existed for long enough). This is a CITES II and EU Wildlife Trade Regulations Annex A protected species.
The Mediterranean spur-thighed tortoise can be found in parts of the Middle East and northern Africa, as well as a few other isolated areas such as southern Spain. Despite also being called the Greek tortoise, it is hardly found in Greece. In different parts of their range they can be very different sizes, with adults of the most common Turkish spur-thigh having a shell 30 cm (12 inches) long or more - the size of a large plate - and the more delicate Tunisian spur-thigh having a shell normally about 15 cm (6 inches) long or less. The shell is normally a little longer than it is wide. Most of the growth happens in the first 15 years. The largest ones are also the heaviest of the Mediterranean tortoises. As youngsters they have dark brown markings on a light brown shell, but this usually fades to plain brown or black as they age. Some varieties, such as the Tunisian spur-thigh, may keep their stronger black and yellow markings for life. They have 5 claws on their front feet and 4 claws on their back feet, the shell scute over the tail is not divided in two, and the rear part of the plastron is hinged so that it can move a little, more flexible on adult females than on males or youngsters. They have a characteristically large bump (spur) on the skin on the back of the thighs. The expected lifespan is between 100 and 150 years, with the record being 165 years - the fourth longest lived of all land animals. This is a CITES II and EU Wildlife Trade Regulations Annex A protected species.
The marginated tortoise is from Greece and Sardinia, with a few isolated populations in nearby countries. It naturally lives in mountainous areas, at slightly higher altitudes than the others. Adults can have a shell as long as 35 cm (14 inches), making them the longest of the Mediterranean tortoises. However, they are quite narrow, with part of the shell length taken up by a beautiful flared edge at the back on males. Most of the growth happens in the first 15 years. They are subtly patterned with golden patches in the middle of brown or black shell scutes, which they normally keep for their whole life, though the light patches look smaller on an adult as they do not grow with the tortoise. They have 5 claws on their front feet and 4 claws on their back feet, the shell scute over the tail is not divided in two, and the rear part of the plastron is hinged so that it can move a little, more flexible on adult females than on males or youngsters. The expected lifespan is between 100 and 140 years. This is a CITES II and EU Wildlife Trade Regulations Annex A protected species.
The Egyptian tortoise is found in the deserts of northern Africa, and the Negev tortoise is found in a desert in Israel. Adults normally have a shell about 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 inches) long. The shell is normally a little longer than it is wide. Most of the growth happens in the first 10 years. They are strongly patterned with sharply defined yellow and black markings, which they normally keep for their whole life. They have 5 claws on their front feet and 4 claws on their back feet, and the shell scute over the tail is normally divided in two, with a stitch line down its middle. They have characteristically large scales on the front legs, and the rear part of the plastron is hinged so that it can move a little, most noticeable on adult females, but also evident on males and youngsters. The expected lifespan is between 70 and 100 years. These are CITES I and EU Wildlife Trade Regulations Annex A protected species (treated as a single species), critically endangered, and rarely seen as pets.
The Horsfield's tortoise is from the soil deserts and grassy steppes in central Asia, from Kazakhstan to Iran and Pakistan. Despite also being called the Russian tortoise, it is hardly found in Russia. It is the least typical of the tortoises listed here. Adults normally have a shell about 20 cm (8 inches) long - the size of a small plate. The shell is normally more round than the others, about as long as it is wide. Most of the growth happens in the first 8 years in captivity (in nature it takes nearly twice as long). As youngsters they are strongly patterned with black markings blotched onto a yellow background like splashed ink, but this usually fades to plain yellow or grubby black. They have 4 claws on all feet, the shell scute over the tail is not divided in two, and the rear part of the plastron is not hinged. Many do not have a nuchal scute. They have many bumps on the backs of the thighs, but these are not especially large. They can live for around 70 years. This is a CITES II and EU Wildlife Trade Regulations Annex B protected species, but unlike the others, it does not require a CITES Article 10 certificate or microchip.
See further information about identifying a Mediterranean tortoise species.
A tortoise's enclosure is its home and territory. The place where it is happy to spend its time, and the place it feels safest. Tortoises are generally happiest when kept in an appropriately sized enclosure. For their first few years, youngsters should be kept in smaller enclosures, with larger enclosures being provided as they grow. They will also use the floor of the house for exercise, and may use the garden for exercise depending on the weather. At all ages, tortoises need this indoor enclosure, which will provide their preferred natural conditions. The enclosure needs to be very well ventilated, with open topped tortoise tables being the recommended approach. The walls need to be taller than the length of the tortoise's shell, and must be slippery so that the tortoise cannot climb them. Pine enclosures must be coated in non-toxic paint or varnish, to prevent the pine from releasing toxins when it is heated. While it is possible to adapt a wooden vivarium with sliding glass doors for use with these tortoises, modifications will need to be made. The ventillation in most vivariums is not adequate, and extra vents will need to be added (for example, add 10 round 70 mm - just under 3 inches - soffit vents). Alternatively, the glass doors can be wedged open a few cm (an inch).
The tortoise should not be able to see out through any glass in front of them. If they can see out, it makes them want to get out, which can be stressful. They cannot see glass, and may be injured by trying to climb through it. If needed, a visual barrier can be painted on the outside of any glass with non-toxic (eg. water-based acrylic) paint. This barrier should be taller than the length of the tortoise's shell. All-glass enclosures are difficult to heat and light correctly for a tortoise, and would still need to be modified to add visual barriers. They should not be used for tortoises.
An enclosure 75 cm (2.5 feet) long and 45 cm (1.5 feet) wide can serve a Hermann's, Egyptian, Negev or Horsfield's tortoise for their first 4 to 6 years, after which they can be given their adult enclosure. An enclosure 105 cm (3.5 feet) long and 60 cm (2 feet) wide can serve a Mediterranean spur-thighed or Marginated tortoise for a similar length of time. For young or small tortoises, with shells under 10 or 15 cm long, it helps to have taller walls that can prevent household draughts from taking their heat. For youngsters, examples include the Hagen Zoozone tortoise enclosures.
Tortoises can escape if they are able to climb out. Escaped tortoises can live for several weeks or months hiding in a dormant state in a house but normally can be found before they come to harm. If they find their way outdoors, they may never be found, and will suffer or die in winter conditions.
The enclosure needs to have an unscented substrate (bedding) on the bottom that is designed for dry conditions, can offer the tortoise something to grip onto, can allow them to dig shallow nests, and is safe if accidentally eaten. If the tortoise lives on a slippery surface, their muscles and joints will not form correctly, and they will be unable to get up if they fall on their backs. Substrate should be as deep as the length of the tortoise's legs, or a little deeper. The only dedicated tortoise bedding that matches these requirements is tortoise pellets, made from straw. It also absorbs the smell of faeces. Some owners like to use more than one type of substrate (such as peat-free and fertiliser-free soil) at different locations in the enclosure, but note that soils do not absorb the smell of faeces, and release dust into the house. Hemp is a possibility, but the dust it produces often causes eye problems for tortoises. Beech chips are good (as long as sharp pieces are removed) but should not be used near the tortoise's food, as they may be eaten by mistake. Aspen, lignocell, bark chips, cypress mulch and other wood chips are not suitable. Alfalfa pellets and cat litter pellets, which look very similar to straw pellets, must not be used. Sand is especially dangerous, as tortoises drag their food onto the floor to eat it, and are prone to eating the substrate at the same time, and sand can cause severe internal blockages that may result in death. Note that it is often recommended by suppliers in spite of this risk. Although some of these tortoises come from deserts, they do not naturally eat on sand - the plants they eat grow above them.
During the daytime, a basking lamp heats one end of the enclosure to over 30 to 35°C (86 to 95°F), leaving the other end at about room temperature (in larger enclosures, only one area needs to be heated). This creates a heat gradient with lots of choices of temperature, allowing the tortoise to warm up when it needs to, and cool down when it needs to. The tortoise chooses the temperature it wants. The bulb should be mounted so that it hangs above the tortoise, about half way between the front and back of the enclosure, and a similar distance from the end wall. At night time, the temperature is allowed to drop quite low; a typical house should be warm enough. Horsfield's tortoises and some others may need supplemental heating at night in winter, to help avoid hibernation. This can be provided by a low power heat mat stuck to the ceiling or wall (not the floor) at the warm end of the enclosure. Heat in nature comes from the sun, and tortoises are not adapted to using heat sources below them - they may burn on a heat mat if it is placed below them. Examples include the Habistat, ProRep or Lucky Reptile 4 Watt, 7 Watt or 11 Watt heat mats. Alternatively, a lower powered red basking lamp (which tortoises can see, but not as well as white light) can be used at night, positioned next to the daytime basking lamp. There are other ways to heat the enclosure, such as ceramic heaters, but the basking lamp is the best approach, as the tortoises are attracted to the light when they want to warm up, and the UVA (not UVB) that it gives off may improve their overall happiness.
Note that basking lamps and heat mats, like most heaters, work by radiated heat, not by heating the air. Thermometers usually measure the air temperature, so will give a false reading. The important temperature is the one that will be reached by an object - the animal or something representing it - when it is placed near the heater for long enough to absorb the radiated heat (a number of hours). Infrared thermometers allow you to measure the temperature of the substrate, ornaments, and animal, rather than the temperature of the air. Wet substrates will appear to be colder than dry ones. Test dry surfaces when measuring temperatures.
The enclosure should contain a hide ornament for the tortoise to hide under. Ideally, it should be made of something that the tortoise can grip onto so that they can climb it for exercise. The simplest approach is an arched piece of cork bark, big enough for the tortoise to crawl underneath and feel it on their back. The hide must be placed near the basking lamp so that it is warm when the basking lamp is on, but not directly underneath it; the tortoise should not have to climb to get warm, or they will frequently fall upside down under the lamp and could overheat without being able to walk away.
A food bowl and water bowl should be placed on the floor at the cold end of the enclosure. The water bowl should be quite shallow, as these tortoises cannot swim, and must not be able to get into water deeper than their armpits. It ideally should be big enough for the tortoise to stand in (they do not see water very well, and may not drink unless they accidentally stand in it), but should not be big enough to increase the humidity in the enclosure. They will normally drink most days, although the owner may not see it happen, so the water bowl is not optional. Ideally the food bowl should be slightly smaller than the amount of food it will contain, so that the food piles above it, allowing the tortoise to see it across the enclosure - weeds in nature grow from above, not down a hole in the ground. It should be shallow enough that the tortoise does not have an awkward climb to reach into it. Many owners like to use a piece of slate instead of a food bowl, which has the side effect of helping to file down the beak of adult tortoises, and prevent it overgrowing.
Additional hides and ornaments may also be included, allowing the tortoise to explore and exercise on them, ideally all made of something the tortoise can climb on, such as cork bark. Ornaments must be safe for reptiles, and must not be made of pine. Toy balls should never be given to these tortoises - the tortoise may appear to be playing with it, but they are actually trying to chase it away from their territory, thinking that it is another tortoise. Live plants are not recommended, but if used, they must be safe for the tortoise to eat - they will rapidly be destroyed by the tortoise. Plastic plants must never be used, as the tortoise will frequently try to eat them, and they can either be harmful if swallowed, or will tease the tortoise with fake food. For hatchlings, a simple layout is best, with only a single ornament, so that they can quickly learn their way around, and know that it is all theirs, and that it is safe. After the initial move into your first enclosure, avoid making too many changes all at once, as this can make the tortoise feel insecure. Add decorations slowly, one at a time, with a few days or weeks in between for the tortoise to get used to the new content.
The enclosure should ideally be placed in the living room, not in front of a radiator, and not in direct view of sunshine. The tortoise should see people frequently, so that it can bond with them. At all times, the animal and enclosure must be kept away from smoke, fireplace and cooking fumes, aerosols, chemical/alcohol sprays, air fresheners, and any scented or fragranced products that are not safe for use with reptiles.
The basking lamp is a special spot lamp, designed to project its heat downwards and spread it the right amount for the tortoise. It is best to buy a dedicated bulb. It hangs downwards so that it points towards the floor of the enclosure. For a 75 cm (2.5 feet) long enclosure, a 60 Watt basking lamp is normally sufficient, but a 40 Watt bulb may be used on very hot days. For a 105 cm (3.5 feet) long enclosure, a 100 Watt basking lamp is normally sufficient, but a 60 Watt bulb may be used on very hot days.
Tortoises need vitamin D3, which they naturally obtain from UVB light. They require it in high levels, and they require a UVB bulb. It is essential equipment, and bone and shell problems are common with tortoises that are kept without adequate UVB lighting. Normally the problems are not seen for several months, then the tortoise suddenly deteriorates and dies, or becomes permanently disabled.
The UVB lamp must be replaced every 6, 9 or 12 months depending on the brand, even if it still appears to be functioning (human eyes cannot see when the UV output drops too far). Write the date on the bulb with a permanent marker to avoid forgetting. For most of these tortoises, the UVB strength must be the correct strength for forest-dwelling reptiles, as they naturally hide when the sun is at its strongest in nature. Medium strength UVB bulbs are usually best, sometimes labelled as "5%" or "6%". For Egyptian and Negev tortoises, UVB strength must be correct for desert-dwelling reptiles. High strength UVB bulbs are usually best, sometimes labelled as "10%" or "12%". Reptile Systems and Zoo Med lights are recommended. Strip lights are far better than compact fluorescents - compacts only project a useful amount of UVB for a distance of about 20 cm (8 inches) from the bulb, and it can be difficult to encourage the tortoise to spend enough time at this distance (if used, they must be placed right next to the basking lamp). The strip light can project a useful amount of UVB much further, over a larger area of the enclosure. A T8 bulb is usually sufficient (with an optional reflector), mounted about 30 to 38 cm (12 to 15 inches) from the floor, normally attached to the back wall or ceiling. The bulb can either be about as long as the whole enclosure, or about half of it, mounted at the hot end so that the tortoise can collect their heat and UV at the same time (just like in nature, where both come from the sun). Either way, the tortoise must still be able to shelter from it if needed, such as under their hide. The tortoise must not be able to climb high enough to look horizontally into the light, as it can cause eye damage. (Cheap fakes - household bulbs with their labels removed - have been found, and are often supplied with hand-made tortoise tables on certain websites. Make sure you are buying a legitimate, branded bulb from a reputable retailer.)
Lighting patterns should match the sun, switching on in the morning and off in the evening, eg. 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM, with no difference between summer and winter day lengths. Both lights must switch off at night so that the tortoise can experience a natural sunlight cycle (with the red basking lamp being switched on at night, if one is being used). The tortoise must spend several hours per day in the enclosure to ensure that it has gathered enough UVB (though it can cope for a few days if it is being transported, or if the lamp has failed).
The water should be replaced every day. Weekly, or immediately if the tortoise has left faeces in it, the water bowl should be cleaned with a reptile-safe disinfectant, and the water replaced. Normal disinfectants can contain dangerous toxins. Try not to spill the water, as it makes the substrate swell up, and can produce mould.
At least once a week, give the tortoise a bath in lukewarm water as deep as their armpits, for 15 minutes. The simplest approach is to use an old washing up bowl. Replace water if the tortoise soils it. Tortoises normally drink through their nose rather than their mouth - this can be mistaken for drowning. Carefully rub dirt off the shell with fingers or a gentle toothbrush. Do not scrub skin. Do not use oils or chemicals.
Tortoise faeces usually appear as black or white clumps. Check for them every day, and remove these with a tissue, as well as any substrate which has become wet. Tortoises may intentionally eat each other's (or their own) faeces, in order to gain gut bacteria.
Once every 6 to 8 weeks, or whenever the substrate becomes too badly degraded, dirty or begins to smell, clean the enclosure and ornaments with a reptile-safe disinfectant, and replace the substrate. Soil may be changed less often, but can end up smelling much worse as a result.
For adult tortoises, the same principle is used, but the tortoise table needs to be larger. An enclosure 120 cm (4 feet) long and 90 cm (3 feet) wide can serve a Hermann's, Egyptian, Negev or Horsfield's tortoise for life (except for very large Hermann's). An enclosure 180 cm (6 feet) long and 90 cm (3 feet) wide is the minimum for a Mediterranean spur-thighed or Marginated tortoise, and they would enjoy more if possible. Commercial tables are available, such as the Vivexotic Viva Tortoise Table and Tortoise Table Extension, which can serve the smaller species, and provide a built-in hide with a slot for an optional heat mat. Most owners construct their own tables for the larger tortoises, using plywood with a non-toxic varnish - this allows them to be shaped to fit the available space in a room. Once the tortoise has bonded with its owners, it no longer needs to be kept in the living room, and a spare bedroom may be preferred.
The water bowl still needs to be large enough for the tortoise to stand in.
Adult tortoise tables may still use the same type of lighting as hatchling tables. However, it is often more convenient to use a single mercury vapour "D3+Basking" bulb, which gives off both heat and UVB in the same bulb. These are substantially more expensive, and need to be replaced every 6 or 12 months depending on the brand. Reptile Systems and Zoo Med lights are recommended. A 100 Watt bulb is normally best (but 80 Watts is sometimes sufficient for smaller enclosures), and can be used all year. These lights are held in a dome or clamp-lamp, and either hung or clipped over the tortoise table, about 30 cm (1 foot) above the tortoise, 45 cm (18 inches) above the floor of the tortoise table. The light is placed near to the built-in hide (if there is one), so that the warmth reminds the tortoise to wake up in the morning. This approach has the added benefit that when the tortoise is exercising around the house, the lamp can be clamped to a piece of furniture hanging over the floor of the room, so that the tortoise can return to it whenever they need to warm up and collect UVB, allowing them to exercise in the room for longer. Young tortoises do not normally make use of this facility, as they tend to hide when they get cold, instead of returning to the light.
With the exception of the Horsfield's tortoise, these tortoises are naturally solitary and territorial, and usually prefer to live alone as adults. They do not appreciate each other's company, as they see each other as competition. Youngsters may be kept together for their first few years provided the enclosure is large enough. Once their adult hormones begin, they would prefer not to live together. When two are kept together, one usually becomes dominant, taking most of the food, biting and bashing into the other tortoise to chase it out of the territory, sometimes flipping it upside down. Tortoises do not "cuddle" each other, they cluster together because they like the temperature in that area. The losing tortoise may suffer health problems as a result. Males may injure or kill each other if forced to live together. In nature, each tortoise can maintain a large area of a hectare (2.5 acres) or more as a territory, and patrols it regularly to ensure that no other tortoise is taking its food. The actual size of the territory depends on how much food is available, but even the smallest territories are 125 square metres (1350 square feet). They may only accept each other's presence during breeding season. When kept in cold garden conditions, this territorial behaviour may not be so obvious, as the tortoises lack the energy to defend their territory.
Horsfield's tortoises naturally sleep for nearly 9 months of the year, so with only 3 months of being awake per year foraging for food, they have to interact for breeding, and are more inclined to cope with seeing each other. Therefore it is often possible for them to live together. However, it is still possible for individuals to become upset with each other, and they may need to be separated.
Males and females should not be kept together, as they are likely to breed while the female is too young, causing medical problems and stunted growth. Repeated breeding from living together permanently can also cause a large amount of stress to the female, and will shorten her life. Sexing is possible by looking for a longer tail on adult (5 to 7 year old) males, which is almost always tucked sideways pointing to the back of their leg. The tail has a slit-shaped opening nearer the tip on an adult male, and a star-shaped opening closer to the shell on females and youngsters. Adult males often have a concave plastron (bottom of the shell) while females and youngsters often have a flat plastron, but sometimes males and females can have the wrong plastron shape. Males may also show their reproductive organ in the bath as young as 3 years old, which is quite long, and can be mistaken for a prolapse. Both sexes sometimes show male mating behaviour, and may attempt to mate with ornaments or other tortoises, but only males may sometimes produce squeaking sounds when doing so. With marginated tortoises, only older adult males have a flared shell. With Hermann's tortoises, males develop a large hardened claw on the tip of their tails as they reach adulthood, while female have a much smaller hardened tip. Horsfield's tortoises also develop this claw, but it is smaller. With species that have a hinged plastron, the plastron hinge will normally move a little more on adult females than adult males, but this is unreliable, since the hinge is also flexible on some males, and normally not at all on youngsters. Sexing young tortoises requires a blood test; even an experienced breeder or vet cannot tell the difference visually, though some sellers may claim otherwise in order to sell more than one. Sometimes a breeder may incubate them at a temperature that produces more males or more females, and therefore claim that they are "all female" - in reality, at least 10% will be wrong, and this sort of incubation also risks birth defects.
For tortoises that are co-habiting, the enclosure should be significantly larger, and bigger is better. Larger groups can work better than pairs as there is less chance that a single tortoise feels that it owns the territory, but some may still try to dominate others. For all species except Horsfield's, the enclosure should ideally be large enough to have multiple hot and cold areas so that each tortoise can have their own territory, as well as multiple feeding bowls, and plenty of visual barriers so that the tortoises can get out of each other's sight. At this point, they may as well have separate enclosures. They should not be able to see into each other's enclosures, as seeing each other constantly can be stressful. They may sometimes be allowed to exercise together, as long as neither sees the exercise space as part of their territory.
Tortoises of different species should not be kept together and ideally should not be exercised together. They are different sizes, which can lead to bullying. Their mating behaviours are very different (some bite, some bash, others probe with tail horns) and they can be harmed by the mating behaviours of another species, as they are not adapted to enduring them. They are adapted to different climates, which can make it difficult to provide each of them with their specific needs. They are from different areas, and have different immunities, so may cause each other to become ill. Even in the case of species that live in the same country (such as Hermann's and marginated tortoises), they naturally live in different habitats.
Tortoises exercise in bursts of activity, sleeping in between. In nature, these tortoises may need to walk 3 km (2 miles) per day, in order to patrol their territory, or find food. Ideally, they should be exercised daily, perhaps several times, but may be left in their enclosure/territory all day if there is no time to exercise. Tortoises prefer to walk rather than be held, especially when young. They may urinate if held for too long (mostly just water, intended to surprise a potential predator). They can be quite afraid of having their head touched, but stroking their shell first then gently sliding a finger from their shell onto their head is usually enough for them to realise it is not a threat. When frightened, they may either tuck into their shell, or stay as still as possible. When excited or when relaxing after staying still, they often breathe heavily, pumping their arms, legs and neck in and out, and nodding their heads up and down. When they need to be picked up, lift them by the shell, and place them onto a hand or surface as soon as possible, so that their legs do not dangle for too long.
They need 1 hour to warm up after lights-on, giving energy to move. They should be in their enclosure for 1 hour before lights-off, deciding where to sleep. In between (eg. 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM) they may come out to exercise in the room. Once the tortoise becomes tired or has cooled down - maybe 15 minutes as a baby, 1 hour as an adult - they should be returned to their enclosure to warm up for an hour. A carpet or towel is better for exercise than a smooth floor. All other pets should be kept away from a tortoise, especially cats and dogs (trustworthy pets may still mistake a tortoise for a toy). While exercising, they may attempt to bite varnished toenails or colourful shoes, or electrical wires, thinking that they are flowers.
At any age, tortoises may spend all daytime (not night time) in the garden if the weather matches their preferred natural habitat. A simple rule; the owner must be willing to sit and relax in the garden wearing a T-shirt, sunshine is preferred. A little hotter is better for the desert species and subspecies, including the Tunisian spur-thigh, Egyptian tortoise and Negev tortoise. On good days, there is nothing better than natural sunshine, and tortoises really do enjoy exploring a garden. They need 2 hours to warm up in the enclosure first. Tortoises can climb wooden fences and drystone walls, dig under fences, and may be attacked by neighbouring pets, or wild birds like crows. Use a pen with a cage top to prevent predators, and solid walls so that the tortoise cannot see out and want to get there. Place it on grass or soil, with somewhere to hide and shelter from the sun, and a water bowl. A pen may also have fencing under the soil to prevent digging. Weeds in the pen must be safe for the tortoise to eat. Remove any obvious animal faeces from the pen, so that it does not get eaten by the tortoise. More elaborate pens may contain rockeries for climbing and natural shelter plants like tall grasses. They must never have access to garden ponds or other water features.
Tortoises should not have their shells painted for identification or decoration - microchips are the way to get escaped tortoises home. Tortoises must never have their shells drilled in order to have a chain fitted to prevent escape - this is a cruel and extremely painful practice that has no place in pet keeping. The shells have nerves like under human fingernails.
Do not exercise them for the first few days, so that they can get used to their new enclosure.
Tortoises can almost always get up when they fall on their backs, and should be allowed to learn how. If owners keep doing this for them, adult tortoises may wait for help for long enough to suffocate. They jiggle their head and legs to shake into a better position, and then push themselves over with their feet. After 15 minutes of trying (2 minutes if under the heat lamp), assist; place a finger beside their foot to offer a better grip. This makes them think that they did it themselves, and means that they will keep trying when it happens again.
Keeping tortoises outdoors (rather than just letting them use the outdoors on good days) in Britain is an outdated practice, a harsh life that often results in a very early death (on average - there will always be exceptions), often due to the extensive hibernation required to survive the lengthy winters, but also due to the overall lack of UV. Their immune system becomes less effective when the temperature is lower, which prevents them from fighting diseases, and the wet British climate can trigger illnesses like the common "runny nose syndrome" - a perpetual respiratory infection that they are unable to fight, and can lead to pneumonia. Animals that depend on their environment for heat and UV should only be kept outdoors if the country where they are living has the same climate as their preferred natural habitat. These tortoises are from countries with Mediterranean and desert climates, not the temperate oceanic (and in some cases temperate rainforest) climate of Britain. This does not change as the tortoises age; they are never adapted to Britain (which is why they are not naturally found here), and there is no age at which they will suddenly become adapted.
However, there are ways to allow a tortoise to use the garden for a few more months of the year. A greenhouse can provide warmth, but the glass completely blocks the UV, so the glass on the sunny side must be replaced with UV transmitting glass or UV transmitting acrylic. In all cases, this still reduces the amount of UV that the tortoise receives (and at the cooler times of year, the sun does not provide much UV anyway due to the low angle of the sun in Britain, or if it is cloudy) so it can help to have a UV lamp (and possibly also a basking lamp) in the greenhouse. Greenhouses can overheat a tortoise on hotter days. Owners that use this approach may leave part of the greenhouse open, to provide warmer and cooler areas. Greenhouses do not have to be big, they can simply be low shelters large enough for the tortoise to use. This also keeps the tortoise away from the rain, but still exposes it to the increased humidity, beyond what many of these species would naturally experience, so this cannot be a perfect solution. Use of a greenhouse requires careful management to avoid overheating, low UV and humidity issues.
Mediterranean tortoises are adapted to their natural diet of various leafy weeds and flowers.
Every day, offer the tortoise fresh salad; loosely piled to the size of their shell. Start by using a good mix of fancy Mediterranean lettuces. Avoid iceberg/gem/round lettuce (which does not contain sufficient nutrition, and can cause diarrhoea) and spinach/cabbage/broccoli (which can cause bone/shell and developmental problems, and kidney stones). Many owners rely on Florette Classic Crispy, available all year in most supermarkets, or lamb's lettuce, which is very healthy. Give a variety of different leaves. Once per month or fortnight, offer Curly Kale or Spring Green cabbage (the only cabbages that may be used in this way). Mediterranean tortoises should not be fed fruit, vegetables, or some herbs - they may like the taste, but these can cause serious health problems. They may safely eat grass, but Mediterranean tortoises normally do not like to. Exercise can be encouraged, particularly in adult tortoises, by feeding small amounts throughout the day (adding up to the correct amount). The tortoise will then walk around between feedings, foraging for food - a natural behaviour.
Tortoises must be given calcium and vitamin supplements several days per week, and it is best if that includes supplemental levels of vitamin D3. The calcium/vitamin dust is sprinkled lightly onto the salad (like salt on chips). In theory, adults (but not egg-laying females) can have it a little less often, but still should have some a couple of times a week at least.
As the tortoise grows, use more natural weeds and flowers from your garden, such as dandelions (leaves and flowers), hawkbit, and plantago. Avoid dangerous weeds like buttercups and ragworts, the tortoise may eat them by accident. The Tortoise Table website may be used to discover which weeds and garden flowers are safe, and which are dangerous. Weed killers, pesticides, and slug pellets must never be used. Safe, natural weeds should become the tortoise's primary diet by the time it is a few years old. Some suppliers, such as Shelled Warriors, offer seed packs that can be used to grow appropriate food. During winter, when weeds do not grow, use the same salad as was used for young tortoises.
Artificial, pelleted tortoise diets are available, which are moistened before serving to the tortoise. These should be considered a supplemental diet only - fresh food is much more important. However, it can help to feed these pelleted diets to a tortoise instead of their regular food once per fortnight or month, in order to train the tortoise to eat them. When the tortoise needs medicating (eg. for worming), liquid medicines can be soaked into the pelleted food and the tortoise will eat them.
On days when the tortoise is enjoying the garden, the amount of food and supplementation cannot be controlled, and tortoises may overeat if too many weeds are available in their pen. It is normally best to ensure there is only a small amount of weeds growing in the pen, and offer the remainder of the diet in a bowl as normal with supplements.
Tortoises (especially adults) should be offered cuttlefish bone to chew on, which files down their beak to prevent it overgrowing. This can be left in the enclosure at all times, and replaced if the tortoise eats it all. It also serves as a secondary source of calcium if the tortoise is craving it. It must not be the only source, as they may not eat it until some time after they needed it, and this could cause health problems.
It is important to feed tortoises a good diet. Do not rely on the advice of other tortoise keepers who say what their tortoise likes to eat - tortoises will eat a great many things that are extremely harmful to them (such as slugs, cat food, and toxic plants). When deciding if something should be offered as food for your tortoise, check The Tortoise Table website, and only use plants that are stated as safe for frequent or occasional use. Note that some fruits, such as tomatoes and cucumber, are sometimes suggested by tortoise keepers as food, but they are not appropriate as tortoise food. Tomatoes carry a potentially harmful natural insecticide, and cucumbers are basically just water. Owners used to use these as a source of water for their tortoises, because they did not want to give them a water bowl or baths. These have the effect of filling the tortoise's stomach, preventing it from being able to eat enough proper food. Give tortoises a good diet instead, and use a water bowl and baths to allow them to drink. For dehydrated tortoises that refuse to drink, a romaine lettuce works just as well as anything else, and also provides a good source of vitamins at the same time.
Most tortoise species prefer not to hibernate, but may become more sleepy in winter. The Egyptian/Kleinmann's and Negev/Werner's tortoises do not naturally hibernate in winter (though they may eat less food), and pets must not be hibernated. Depending on where they live, Hermann's, Mediterranean spur-thighed and marginated tortoises may all hibernate in particularly cold winters in their natural range, but there are significant populations that do not naturally hibernate, or only hibernate very infrequently. These animals can be seen awake at all times of year in significant parts of their natural habitats. The Tunisian spur-thighed tortoise, for example, does not naturally hibernate, and must not be forced to. The Horsfield's tortoise, for much of its range, normally hibernates in winter, and aestivates in summer, spending as much as 9 months of each year dormant for one reason or the other. In all cases, hibernation is a response to the conditions becoming unfavourable for the tortoise, and hibernation is the only way it can try to survive, while hoping that favourable conditions return before it runs out of resources.
Indoor enclosures with suitable conditions in summer and winter should mean that none of the tortoises listed here have to hibernate (even though some owners may occasionally say that they are unable to prevent their Horsfield's tortoise from refusing food and sleeping for much of the winter), and it is now normal for these tortoises not to be hibernated. The suggestion here is that you do not hibernate your tortoise. If done improperly, the tortoise may not survive, and it is very common for owners to lose their tortoises during a hibernation, even if it is done in the best possible way, and even if it has previously survived a hibernation. If a tortoise appears to be going into a hibernation, it is not because it needs to hibernate, it is because it it has been given unfavourable conditions. The conditions should be improved to give the tortoise its preferred conditions instead.
If you choose to hibernate your tortoise, it must be a species (and subspecies) that is capable of hibernation. If you cannot conclusively identify which subspecies you have, or if you cannot find information on whether or not that subspecies may naturally hibernate, it is best to assume that it cannot. Ideally it should be over 6 years old so that it is strong enough to survive small mistakes. It should have a health check from a specialist first to make sure it has enough resources, and is not ill. The Jackson ratio can be used for some species to get an idea of whether the tortoise is underweight. Hibernation lengths should not exceed the natural hibernation length for that tortoise species, such as 6 weeks. Stop feeding for 6 weeks prior to hibernation to empty the gut and prevent complications from rotting, undigested food. The temperature in the tortoise's enclosure should be lowered over the last 2 weeks. The tortoise must continue to drink, but must not have urinated after its last drink prior to hibernation. After a final health check, it is entrusted to a hibernation fridge, and the max/min temperature and tortoise must be monitored carefully every day. It needs to be weighed every few days to check that it is not losing more than the equivalent of 1 or 2% of its body weight per month. It needs to be brought out of hibernation early if anything goes wrong, such as urination, infection, significant temperature fluctuations, frostbite, or losing more weight than expected. When waking it from hibernation, it should be taken out of the fridge and warmed with artificial sunlight over the course of a few hours, then given baths with dedicated reptile electrolytes. Within a day or two, it must be provided lots of hydration food (fresh, moist leaves) and should start eating. Veterinary care should be sought urgently if it has not eaten within 3 days of waking.
Hibernation is best done in a ventillated hibernation fridge, where the temperature can be carefully controlled (it must be between 5 and 10°C, 41 and 50°F, preferably 5°C, 41°F), and the tortoise can be monitored. It should not be done using the "box method" as the temperature cannot be properly controlled. It should not be done by allowing the tortoise to bury itself in the garden, as the duration cannot be controlled and will end up far longer than a natural hibernation, the tortoise cannot be monitored, and predators can attack it. The fridge must not be placed in a location that drops below freezing, because fridges can only make things colder, not warmer. It needs low-flow ventillation pipes to be inserted through the rubber seal (optionally with an aquarium air pump providing airflow, but this is not essential), and a clear glass door allows the tortoise to be visually monitored. A small drinks chiller fridge is normally best (without a freezer section). The tortoise needs to be placed in a small, ventillated plastic box inside the fridge so that it can wake and move around a little. The box should be kept away from the chiller surface inside the fridge - usually the top or back wall - as that can be colder than the air in the fridge. It helps to have several bottles full of water in the fridge, which hold the temperature more steady and quickly correct any little fluctuations whenever the door is opened. Practice by "hibernating" an empty box with multiple thermometers to monitor its temperature for an entire winter, before entrusting your pet to this for its brief hibernation the next year. Thermometers need to record the maximum and minimum temperatures they experience, since they cannot be manually monitored constantly. There are services that can hibernate tortoises, which may be offered for a fee, or for a suggested donation, or sometimes for free.
(There may sometimes be a veterinary reason why your tortoise needs to hibernate, such as reducing obesity. If your vet says your tortoise needs to hibernate, discuss the reasoning with your vet. Obesity can normally be avoided by using a good diet and exercise, without needing to risk hibernation.)
See further information about the reasons that hibernation became common, and the risks it introduces.
Tortoises occasionally shed their skin. The skin peels off in pieces from their head (particularly their neck), legs and tail area. They should be left to complete this on their own - owners can rip the new skin if they attempt to assist the tortoise. They may appreciate more frequent bathing while they are shedding, perhaps twice a week.
Tortoises can produce as many as 30 eggs several times in a year from a single mating, though most produce 6 or so a couple of times per year. The eggs require incubation in a dedicated incubator. For the first year, the hatchlings can be quite delicate and challenging to raise healthily in Britain (though it is possible using the principles outlined here, with additional bathing), but ideally the breeder should raise them through this stage. The expense of housing, feeding, registering and microchipping 10 to 100 hatchlings can be prohibitive, and finding homes for all of them can be quite difficult. Private breeding often costs more than the value of the young tortoises. They are better kept as pets, and not used as breeders. There are already several major organisations that supply the pet trade with healthy and legitimate captive bred stock.
Tortoises are generally healthy animals when cared for correctly, and rarely require veterinary care. Some of the more obvious signs of problems include:
Tortoises do not normally need their claws to be clipped - this can in fact cause them to become disabled, unable to climb properly, or unable to turn back over when they have landed on their backs. The tortoise's normal exercise will usually be enough to naturally wear them down to the correct length. They may need to be clipped if they have begun to twist around each other.
Female tortoises may regularly lay fertile eggs if they live with males, or may sometimes lay infertile eggs even if they have never lived with a male. Before or after laying, care should be taken to ensure that they are receiving adequate calcium in their diet. If a female appears to be repeatedly digging and straining without laying (not just digging a nest or burrow for sleeping), or becoming lethargic at a time when egg laying is expected, she may need to be checked for egg binding.
On a monthly basis, or whenever you suspect they are ill, you may wish to weigh your tortoise, after they have finished digesting any food that they recently ate (eg. after they produce faeces). This is known as their empty weight. This record of their weight can be very useful for a vet, if your tortoise appears to be ill at any point. Dramatic weight loss (eg. 10% in 2 weeks) suggests that worming or other veterinary treatments are needed. You may also wish to measure the length of their shell, which is used in Jackson ratio calculations. The "straight carapace length" is the length of space that the top part of the shell can fit in, front to back, and is not measured over the curve of the shell (ie. if you put the front of the tortoise's shell up against a wall, how far from the wall is the back of the shell).
Tortoises may avoid food for significant periods, especially during winter. Seek advice as needed, especially if they rapidly lose weight.
Reptiles can be quite sensitive to non-reptile medications. Only use medications which can be safely used with reptiles, or which are prescribed by a vet. They are particularly sensitive to alcohol and solvents. Any use of treatments where alcohol is used as a solvent must be done in a well ventillated environment, not in the confined space of the animal's enclosure.
Quarantine is not needed with your first reptile. However, as you gain more reptiles, it becomes more important. The general idea is to keep newly acquired animals away from your existing animals for long enough that you can be sure they are not bringing in any illnesses which could harm the existing animals. This quarantine period could last around 2 to 4 weeks for a basic quarantine, or as much as 6 months for an ideal quarantine. If any existing animals become ill with a potentially communicable disease, they can also be immediately moved into quarantine to protect the other animals.
A basic quarantine would simply be to keep the animal in a separate enclosure from existing animals, even if they will end up sharing an enclosure later. A more advanced quarantine would be to keep the quarantine enclosure in a separate room, using bowls and feeding tongs that will never be used for the others. Disposable rubber gloves can be worn when touching the animal or any part of its enclosure, and thrown away after each use. Although animals in quarantine need to be monitored, all work with quarantined animals should take place after any other work has been done with non-quarantined animals, to avoid carrying illnesses back to the non-quarantined animals. If food is refused by a quarantined animal, the leftover food should not be offered to a non-quarantined animal.
A quarantine enclosure would ideally be made of something that can be easily and completely disinfected, perhaps even steam cleaned or covered with boiling water, leaving nowhere for any diseases or parasites to hide in it. A plastic enclosure normally serves this purpose very well. All ornaments should be similarly easy to clean and disinfect, and considered disposable, so that they can be thrown away if an occupant turns out to be carrying a communicable illness.
If an animal (whether in quarantine or not) is to be put into an enclosure that was previously used by another animal, the enclosure and ornaments should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected with a reptile-safe disinfectant first, and any substrate replaced. If the previous occupant died from a communicable disease, it is perhaps better to dispose of the old enclosure and ornaments, and purchase a new one. Although rare, some of the most serious parasites (such as cryptosporidium) can survive for 2 years in an empty enclosure, and cannot be killed by simple disinfectants.
Tortoises can travel for many hours in a small, ventilated box, with tissue for bedding. The box should be placed on your lap in a car with the heating on if needed. They should not be heated from below with anything hot. Hot water bottles and electric heaters should be avoided. If they soil the box, replace the tissue.
All of these tortoises except the Horsfield's tortoise must legally have a CITES Article 10 certificate, and will require a microchip once large enough (the exact size of the shell is mandated by the certificate, normally 6 or 10 cm long). If the tortoise is supplied with a certificate but without a microchip, the owner must get it microchipped in accordance with the certificate, and will normally need to pay a fee for the paperwork to be re-issued. The certificate (and microchip, if the tortoise is large enough) are required before they can be taken to another country, sold (including non-financial exchanges), or left as inheritance in a will. Some vets may also require the certificate to be presented before they will treat the tortoise. Older tortoises that were never issued a certificate may continue to be kept as a pet, and may be gifted to new owners, but the restrictions are applied to them, preventing them from being sold or taken across borders - check your national legal restrictions. Ideally, they should not be bred, as the origin of the offspring cannot be assured, and the request for certification of the offspring may be refused. Many older tortoises were issued with retroactive certificates when the certification system was introduced. In the UK and the EU, unregistered tortoises may still be registered (with DEFRA in the UK) to allow them to be used as breeders (but not to be sold) if needed.
Most will already be microchipped before purchase (normally in their back-left leg), and the certificate should always be provided by the supplier or breeder - prospective owners should only accept these tortoises if they are accompanied by a CITES Article 10 certificate. These are exceptionally long-lived animals, and it is common for them to be left in wills, or to have an owner move to another country at some point, so an unregistered tortoise can present a problem.
If a tortoise is rehomed, new owners must be given the certificate. It lists the certificate number, microchip number, species name, age, and country of hatching. Most are registered to the UK or the EU. If moving to another country, owners must ask DEFRA (UK government) and the destination country whether the tortoise will be allowed, and what certificates are needed. Replacement certificates may be obtained from DEFRA using the certificate or microchip number.
Vets may either be able to implant the smaller type of chip (for tortoises of 6 cm or more) or the larger type of chip used for cats and dogs (not recommended, but may be used for tortoises of 10 cm or more if the small chip is not available). Check what the vets in your area can supply, and use a vet that is familiar with this process for tortoises.
Horsfield's tortoises do not require a microchip or certificate, but may be optionally microchipped so that escaped tortoises can be returned to their owner.
Owners may optionally register their tortoise with Petlog, Anibase, PETtrac or related organisations, so that escaped tortoises can be returned to their owner. Alternatively, the owner can have the DEFRA paperwork registered to themselves (it is normally registered to the breeder or importer), and re-issued whenever they change address, where a fee is normally charged for every change. Petlog is normally more convenient.
This is just a quick guide to get you started. It is not intended to be a complete book, and cannot replace a well written book, or the advice of an expert. It is based on our own best knowledge at the time of writing, and advice may change over time as new techniques, technology, or medical advice becomes available. Owners are responsible for ensuring that their knowledge is kept up to date. This guide is based on the British Isles, but the basic principles may be applied to other areas too.