Getting started with your tarantula or scorpion

Tarantulas

Brazilian whiteknee tarantula
Brazilian whiteknee tarantula

This is a general care guide for tarantulas (a type of arachnid), and care needs to be tailored to the specific species.

Tarantulas ("Ts") are very large spiders, with leg spans between a couple of centimetres for small species, and 30 cm for the largest species. All are quite fragile and can be easily hurt if not treated gently. Almost all are nocturnal. They have 10 legs (as with all spiders), with the front two being somewhat smaller, and becoming reproductive palps in adult males (which is why they are not normally called legs, even though the spider walks on them). Between the front legs are the chelicerae (jaws), with the fangs attached to underside of them - the tips are tucked into the mounth underneath the spider, so that they cannot accidentally bite or get damaged. On the end of the abdomen are the spinnerets, little fingers that produce webs. They have very poor eyesight, seeing only black-and-white shadowy shapes above them and nothing in front or below, so they rely on sensory hairs all over their body for feeling, sensing vibrations, and smelling. In general, terrestrial species cannot jump, and many cannot run further than their own legspan. Arboreal species can run and jump (about 1 metre horizontally at most, and much less vertically), and many African terrestrial species can run at speeds similar to human walking speed. All are capable of biting and have venom. None have venom strong enough to be considered dangerous (though allergic reactions are possible), but some have medically significant venom. In general, tarantulas from the Old World (Europe, Asia, Africa) are somewhat more defensive, with more signifcant venoms present in several species. New World tarantulas (Americas) often have urticating (itchy) hairs, and medically insignificant venom. However, there are exceptions in all cases. Check the details for the specific tarantula species.

All tarantula species have a life span of many years, with most being between 10 and 15 years. Some of the longer lived species can live between 20 and 40 years. Female tarantulas live much longer than males.

Scorpions

Asian forest scorpion
Asian forest scorpion

This is a general care guide for scorpions (a type of arachnid), and care needs to be tailored to the specific species.

Most scorpions ("scorps") are terrestrial, naturally hiding in cracks between rocks or under fallen logs or leaves, or digging a burrow. All are nocturnal. They have 8 legs, 2 pincers at the front, and a venomous sting on the tip of their tail (the "tail" is actually their digestive tract and vent). The chelicerae (jaws) are between the pincers, and look like miniature pincers, but are not used for defensive purposes. They have colour vision looking upwards, black-and-white vision looking ahead over their pincers, and generic light sensing in their tail, as well as hairs on their body for detecting vibrations and smell, and pheromone-sensing combs underneath them. None can jump, but they are able to run at a slow human walking speed. Scorpion species have a range of venom strengths, with the least potent venoms being comparable to stinging nettles, and the most potent venoms being potentially fatal (legally classed as dangerous wild animals). Many of the least potent species are commonly kept as pets. In general, species with small pincers and large tails are more potent, while species with large pincers and thin tails are relatively harmless. However, there are scorpions that defy this general rule. While the general care of dangerous species remains the same, their housing and interaction are controlled by legally-required local licensing, and they are therefore not covered by this guide.

Scorpions normally live for less than 10 years.

Enclosure

The enclosure is the animal's home and territory. The place where it is happy to spend its time, and the place it feels safest. They are generally happiest when kept in an appropriately sized enclosure. For terrestrial tarantula species, the enclosure should be at least twice the width of the spider's legspan wide, and four times the spider's legspan long. The spider should not be able to climb too high, or they may fall and be injured - most can climb smooth surfaces like glass. For arboreal species, a vertical enclosure is needed, with the floor twice their leg span wide in each direction, and the height four times their legspan. For scorpions, an enclosure with a width twice as long as the scorpion, and a length four times as long as the scorpion, will usually suffice. Scorpions can climb rough surfaces, but most cannot climb smooth surfaces like glass.

Ventillation is needed. Faunariums or critter boxes are appropriate, with terrariums for larger species. Young tarantulas and scorpions should not be kept in very large enclosures. The enclosure size should be increased as the animal grows.

Tarantulas and scorpions can escape if they are able to climb out, though often they will wait in their enclosure if it is left open, waiting for it to be closed again. Escaped tarantulas and scorpions can live for several months or even years, hiding in a house or a garden, but can be difficult to find, so try not to let it happen in the first place. If it happens, they are often found hiding in a warm, dark, confined location, such as behind a radiator.

Terrestrial species of tarantula and scorpion will need an unscented substrate (bedding) on the bottom of the enclosure. Species from humid areas need a substrate that retains moisture like coconut fibre or cypress mulch. Species from dry areas will need a substrate that can dry out. Species that burrow will need a substrate that allows burrowing. Arboreal spiders may not need a substrate depending on these other needs. In general, coconut fibre substrate can be used for almost all tarantulas and scorpions, allowing it to dry out for desert species, and keeping it moist for rainforest species. The substrate can be a few centimetres deep, a little deeper for rainforest and burrowing species.

Most tarantulas and scorpions need supplemental heat. This is normally provided by a heat mat placed outside the wall at one end of the enclosure, with the heat radiating into the enclosure through the wall, which is left on all day and night. The other end of the enclosure is left at room temperature, providing a heat gradient so that the animal can choose the temperature that it wants. With a few species, such as the Chilean rose, room temperature is sufficient, and a heat mat is not needed as long as the enclosure is placed in a normally heated room. Select an appropriately powered heat mat to supply the level of heat required for the individual species. With very small enclosures, it is usually best to heat a larger enclosure, and place the smaller enclosure inside it in a position where it receives an appropriate level of heat.

Note that heat mats, like most heaters, work by radiated heat, not by heating the air. Thermometers usually measure the air temperature, so will give a false reading. The important temperature is the one that will be reached by an object - the animal or something representing it - when it is placed near the heater for long enough to absorb the radiated heat (a number of hours). Infrared thermometers allow you to measure the temperature of the substrate, ornaments, and animal, rather than the temperature of the air. Wet substrates will appear to be colder than dry ones. Test dry surfaces when measuring temperatures.

Terrestrial species should be given one or two hide ornaments, such as low cork arches, which they can shelter in, and feel that they are hidden. With tarantulas, a flat area of substrate with no furniture is required, larger than the spider, for it to use while feeding and shedding. Arboreal species should be given branches and vertical, hollow tubes to hide in, as well as artificial leaves to climb around. Scorpions from rocky areas may prefer layers of rocks with gaps in between for them to wedge into - make sure they cannot fall and crush the scorpion.

A shallow water bowl must be available at all times for juvenile and adult tarantulas and scorpions. For most species, a bowl large enough for the tarantula or scorpion to lower the front part of its body into, is large enough. For humid species, larger bowls are better.

Additional hides and ornaments may also be included. Add decorations slowly, one at a time, with a few days or weeks in between for the animal to get used to the new content.

The enclosure should be kept away from direct sunlight, bright lights, radiators, draughts and vibrations. At all times, the animal and enclosure must be kept away from smoke, fireplace and cooking fumes, aerosols, chemical/alcohol sprays, air fresheners, and any scented or fragranced products that are not safe for use with these animals. Tarantulas in particular are very sensitive to chemical sprays and fumes.

Never tap on the sides of the enclosure, as that is quite frightening for the animal.

Lighting

Dedicated enclosure lighting is not needed for any tarantula or scorpion species, and in many cases is not desired, as the animals will hide from the light. It may be used in some cases - especially for decorative enclosures - if there are plenty of places for the animal to hide from the light when needed. Diurnal tarantulas, such as some Brachypelma and pink toes, may still shy away from bright lights. Lighting (including any lights in the room) must be off during the night so that the animals have a day and night. Scorpions may have dedicated scorpion UV lighting which can be used briefly at night to show off their UV glow - this is not used for medical purposes.

Care and cleaning

Refill the bowl with fresh water a few times a week, or use bug gel for young spiders and scorpions. For dry species, spill a small amount of water around the bowl to create a damp area. For humid species, spill a lot more water, so that around 1/3 to 1/2 of the floor is damp. Humid species may also have their enclosure lightly sprayed with fresh water every few days, to maintain the correct humidity. This should preferably be done using a handheld spray bottle - one that has never contained toxic chemicals. For semi-aquatic species, a larger pool should be provided. Bowls should not be located near the heat mat. For very small spiderlings ("slings"), it is usually best to spray some water droplets onto the wall of the enclosure instead of using a bowl.

Monthly, remove substrate that is contaminated with faeces (white blobs). The substrate may be replaced once every 6 to 12 months if needed. Cleaning should be kept to a minimum for arboreal or fast moving species, as well as potent species - in these cases, any maintenance is usually done through a narrow opening in the enclosure, using long tongs to move items when needed. It is best to leave a spider's webbing tunnels, feeding mats, and trip lines alone as much as possible - these are part of the spider's home, and make it feel secure (though it can be interesting to watch a spider create new webs after a full clean of the enclosure). Shedding hammocks may be removed once they are no longer in use - species with urticating hairs will leave a layer of them in the hammock.

Males and females

Sexing spiderlings is impossible. Sexing adult tarantulas may be done by the ratios of various body parts (if there are several to compare), or by the presence of palps and sometimes leg hooks in males. Sub-adults and adults may also be sexed by looking for spermatheca in the shed skin of females, or by looking for epiandrous fusillae in macro photographs of males, but this often requires a specialist to confirm the results. With some species, males and females have different colours as adults. Males live much shorter lives than females, usually much less than 10 years, reaching adulthood about a year before their sisters and dying about a year later, being unable to shed as adults. They may spin sperm webs and try tapping messages to females. Mating attempts (done using the palps) can result in the death of the male. Females produce egg sacs after mating (and can also sometimes produce infertile egg sacs), which may require specialist incubation, and can produce thousands of young which may then proceed to eat each other, or be eaten by their mother.

Scorpion males live the same length of time as females, and sometimes cannot be distinguished from them. As adults, the operculum shape is often the only difference, though sometimes the combs or chelae can be different shapes, depending on the species. Mating appears as a dance. Females produce a large number of live young, and usually carry them around for a few months, feeding them until they can survive on their own. She may then see them as food, so youngsters cannot live with their mother after she completely stops carrying them.

Living together

Most spider species are capable of eating other spiders their own size, and scorpions can also eat other scorpions their own size. Most should not be kept together. Even with communal species that grow up together, it is still possible for them to eat each other, especially if the enclosure is too large (they need to encounter each other frequently), or if there is a lack of food. They are best kept alone. Species must never be mixed.

Handling

Tarantulas are best left alone, as they are quite fragile, and easily damaged. When they need to be moved, it is best to do so by placing a cup over them, and gently sliding a card underneath to trap them inside. Some may sprint or jump if they are startled, and can easily be injured or get lost. Fast moving or potent species should never be handled, and all interactions should be kept to a minimum (their housing changes are usually done calmly in a bathroom, in the bath, so the spider has difficulty climbing out if it leaves the enclosure). Some will readily bite when startled or touched. Most African "baboon" tarantulas are renowned for quickly resorting to self-defence (eg. orange baboon/"OBT"/"orange bitey thing"), and some Asian ones are similar (eg. Haplopelma/Cyriopagopus). Bites from some species may require hospital care, with Heteroscodra (eg. Togo starburst), Poecilotheria ("pokies", eg. Indian ornamental), Hysterocrates (eg. Cameroon baboon), Stromatopelma (eg. feather leg baboon) and Haplopelma/Cyriopagopus (eg. cobalt blue, Thai zebra) being among the most significant, and several others still being extremely painful (eg. orange baboon). Less potent venoms can still trigger allergic reactions. Never blow on a spider or scorpion, as this is extremely frightening for them, and may cause them to panic, run away, or defend themselves.

However, a few tarantula species, such as the Chile rose, may usually be handled with care, but the spider will never enjoy this. In general, this is only possible with terrestrial species that have urticating hairs, and the pink toe family (which normally move faster), but each species can respond differently, and an appropriate species should be selected if handling is desired. Some species or individual spiders may bite, normally just to hold on, if they think they are about to fall - this can be quite painful even if the bite is dry (no venom) or the venom is weak, and the spider may be accidentally killed in response. Some species (eg. salmon pink) or individuals may be extremely nervous, and can run off and fall. Urticating hairs may be scratched/flicked off by the spider before or during handling, and some species (eg. Mexican red knee) do this much more than others. The urticating hairs of most species produce mild itching with some producing quite severe itching. Some can even cause blisters (eg. goliath birdeater). All can cause problems if they get in your eyes. The pink toe family may squirt a small amount of faeces towards you if startled. Many tarantulas will spin threads as they walk, which help them feel secure. Check the behaviour and urticating hair details for the specific species.

Gently touching a foot usually makes them walk away (if they turn to face it, they may be hungry, and could bite by mistake), and this can be used to control their walking, so that they walk onto a hand. Keep very calm, and continuously place hands in front of them so that they have something to step onto. Ask for a demonstration from a specialist before attempting this. Handling adult males is normally not a good idea, as they are more interested in running off to find females. If a tarantula falls, it is often fatal. Even a short fall of a few centimetres can be fatal if the tarantula lands badly. Tarantulas generally ignore things that move near them, but can be startled by vibrations and sudden changes in light or shadow, especially above them. If a spider raises its front four legs, that is a defensive posture, and shows that it may bite. If it also exposes its fangs (which are normally tucked out of sight), then a bite is even more likely.

Always wash hands with soap and cold water after handling tarantulas that have urticating hairs. Do not touch your eyes or your face until your hands have been thoroughly washed.

Scorpion handling is generally discouraged, but some owners may choose to handle less defensive and less potent species (eg. Asian forest scorpion, emperor scorpion). "Tailing" (picking them up by the tail) risks injury to the scorpion and keeper, but is still often used, particularly with larger species that lack the strength to lift their own heavy bodies. They are better scooped up with a large spoon or piece of cork bark and gently tipped onto a hand. They may pince or sting in response if this is done badly, and both can be quite painful, depending on the species (and allergic reactions are possible with stings). Their walking cannot be controlled, as touching a foot usually results in them assuming a defensive posture or running and falling off. Though they usually survive a fall better than a tarantula, they may still be injured or killed. Scorpions respond quickly to changes in light and things moving near them, especially above them. If a scorpion raises its pincers and lifts its tail above its back, that is a defensive posture, and shows that it may sting or pince.

Handling tarantulas or scorpions often results in the animal being unwilling to eat until the next day. If it is done, it should be done infrequently, once a week is more than enough (though some tarantulas cope with handling a little more often). It should not be done at all if the animal has fed in the last few hours, is still hungry, or is still soft after shedding. Small spiderlings should not be handled.

Feeding

Most tarantulas and scorpions can be offered food once per week, but most can refuse food for several months at a time. Food items may be up to half the size of the tarantula or scorpion, and they may ignore items that are too small. Only use live, comercially produced insects as prey items, such as locusts, crickets (which can bite the tarantula or scorpion), cockroaches, fruit flies, curly winged flies, or various mealworms (usually only used with young scorpions). Arboreal tarantulas will need insects that climb, such as locusts. Their food can usually be bought from pet shops and online suppliers. Consult your local pet shops. Wild insects must never be used, as they can contain harmful parasites. Most tarantulas and scorpions should only be offered one or two prey items at a time. When using fruit flies as food for young tarantulas, feed several at a time. Some spiders, particularly rainforest species, may eat more often, or more insects per meal. Most terrestrial tarantulas will spin a feeding mat to eat from, and some burrowing or arboreal spiders create elaborate web tunnels, but none use webs to catch their food; they simply grab it. Scorpions also grab their food, and most species with small pincers will also sting it.

Food should be released into the enclosure and left there until it is eaten. If a tarantula (not a scorpion) touches a food item but then ignores it or walks away from it, the food item may optionally be removed. Fingers should never be used near the food while it is in the enclosure - this risks an accidental bite or sting. Use feeding tongs.

After feeding, they usually leave the balled-up remains of the parts that they could not eat, which should be removed from the enclosure to prevent mould growth. Any dead food items should also be removed.

Note that in spite of their name, "birdeater" tarantulas do not naturally eat birds or any other kind of meat, and should only be fed insects. They earned their name because one spider was once seen in the wild, feeding on the carcass of a dead bird that it had found - this is not their normal diet. They certainly would not be capable of capturing a bird in order to eat it (though golden silk orb-weaver spiders have been known to do so with their webs). Meat (including "pinkie" mice) can cause serious health and neurological problems to tarantulas and scorpions. It has even been known to cause some normally calm tarantulas to become very afraid and defensive, quickly resorting to biting when approached.

Shedding

Tarantulas shed their skin every few months to every couple of years, usually spinning a hammock web for the purpose, or webbing up the entrance to their hide or burrow. They usually refuse food beforehand for several weeks. Tarantulas lie on their backs to shed, and the process may take an hour or a couple of days. After they shed, their old skin (which looks like the tarantula) can be removed from the enclosure. They are very delicate for some days or weeks after it, and food should not be offered for at least a fortnight - the food should be removed again if the spider shies away from it, as they may not have completed hardening, and could be injured by the insect. Once they start eating again, their appetite may be quite high, and they may accept meals a little more frequently than normal for a few weeks. Their shedding hammock may be removed once they start eating.

Scorpions do not shed once they reach adulthood, and eventually die because their body parts wear out and cannot be replaced. While they are young, they shed a few times per year, refusing food for some time beforehand, then shedding overnight. They normally eat their old skin and should be left with it for at least a week in case they want to do so. Their new skin is usually soft (and oddly coloured) for some weeks afterwards, and they should not be offered food for at least a fortnight, or until their skin colour returns to normal.

If they are hurt or injured, tarantulas may intentionally drop off a leg, and slowly grow it back over the next few sheds. Scorpions may drop off pincers, but cannot grow back lost body parts.

Health

Young spiderlings are quite fragile, and can die for no obvious reason, as they would do in nature. Sub-adults and adults of most pet species are usually very healthy, and live their complete lives without issues, as long as they are given the appropriate care for that species. Some species cope with mistakes better than others, and some can be quite delicate. Veterinary care is virtually non-existent, so problems usually cannot be dealt with medically. Some of the more obvious signs of problems include:

A dehydrated tarantula can sometimes be saved by putting it in a small box with layers of paper towel that are wet with warm (not hot) water for a day or two. The box should be kept in a warm location such as inside their enclosure. However, if it smells dead, then it is dead, not dehydrated. Dehydration is usually caused by keeping a humid species in a dry environment, or keeping a tarantula without a water bowl.

If a tarantula or scorpion fails to shed correctly, it is usually fatal. Surgery may be performed by experienced keepers in some cases, to assist the animal. However, owners should normally resist the temptation to intervene, and should leave the animal to complete the process on its own, if it can.

Rotten legs are normally shed by a spider, and regrown. (Specialists may intervene and intentionally remove the leg, if the spider fails to do this itself. Non-specialists should not attempt this.) On a scorpion, the leg may remain permanently rotten, which can sometimes cause a fatal infection.

Bleeding can sometimes be fixed by laying a small piece of toilet tissue over the puncture, which acts like a graft, and aids clotting. Although this may work, a tarantula may sometimes fail its next shed at that location, due to scarring.

Mouldy furniture must be removed. Arachnid-safe disinfectants at anti-fungal concentrations may be lightly sprayed onto the animal in order to kill any mould. Other disinfectants may contain chemicals that could kill the animal. F10 is not designed as a topical ointment, and is not certified for this purpose, but it has been used successfully in this way; any use of it is done entirely at the owner's risk.

Quarantine and re-using enclosures

Quarantine is not usually needed with these animals, as they are normally housed separately, and do not have many communicable diseases.

If an animal is to be put into an enclosure that was previously used by another animal, the enclosure and ornaments should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected with an arachnid-safe disinfectant first, and any substrate replaced.

Transport

Tarantulas and scorpions can travel for many hours in a small, ventilated box, with tissue for bedding. The box should be placed on your lap in a car with the heating on if needed. They should not be heated from below with anything hot. Hot water bottles and electric heaters should be avoided. If they soil the box, replace the tissue.

Other arachnids

This care guide may also be applied to some other arachnids:

Whip scorpions/vinegaroons
Non-venomous.
Tailless whip scorpions
Non-venomous.
Many spiders
Some spiders are classified as dangerous wild animals, and are not covered here.
Camel spiders
Non-venomous, eat small food, need deep substrate, can chew through mesh.

Disclaimer

This is just a quick guide to get you started. It is not intended to be a complete book, and cannot replace a well written book, or the advice of an expert. It is based on our own best knowledge at the time of writing, and advice may change over time as new techniques, technology, or medical advice becomes available. Owners are responsible for ensuring that their knowledge is kept up to date. This guide is based on the British Isles, but the basic principles may be applied to other areas too.