Besseggen 2008

The colour of autumn.

Jotunheimen is a national park situated a little south of Dovre, in the middle of the large bulbous part at the south end of Norway. It contains all of the 23 tallest peaks in Scandinavia, of which we would be climbing none. This was a walk for colours. For less than 2 weeks of every year, the autumn colours sweep over Jotunheimen, turning it from greens into reds and oranges, and then giving way to the bare hillsides ... er ... mountainsides of winter. The Besseggen ridge walk is the most popular walk in this most popular national park in Norway, along the edge of a glacial valley lake. It is popular for its landscape views, for the autumn colours, and for the narrow ridge that must be climbed to complete the walk.

We had only one day available to walk the route, but the weather forecast had been reliably bad; rain for the second half of the day, 20 m/s (45 MPH) winds, snow in the evening. We abandoned the plans, and decided to drive around and look at the mountains, preparing for proper trips next year. But then we abandoned that plan too...

• We had to leave at the end of rush hour, but even so, the queue still took nearly two hours to get to Sundvollen, on the far side of the Marka. Some snails managed to get there before us.
• The sun had set even before we had left the edge of the Oslo area. Still, the speed gave us enough time to see and hopefully reliably identify a hen harrier - the sixth bird of prey I have seen in Norway. After nightfall (two pictures later), we also saw an owl (possibly a snowy owl) trying to play chicken with our car's windscreen.
• Nose In Hole. Affectionately known as 69.
• An awesome and very messy sport, invented in Fagernes.
• Although we had planned to camp, the car rental swapped our small car for an estate, which offered alternative accomodation. Cramped and uncomfortable, but much better at sheltering from the weather.
• In the early light of morning, I spotted a herd of reindeer walking against the wind (apparently this is what they do) - apologies for the blur, but it needed a ¼ second exposure.
• As the light improved, we could see it was a large herd of more than 30 animals.
• The view from our camp site. Left to right are Kalvehøgde (2208 metres), Tjønnholstind (2331 metres), the ridge of Knutshøe (1517 metres), Besshøe (2258 metres), the ridge of Veslfjellet (1743 metres) with Besseggen at its left edge and Nedre Leirungen (983 metres) in front of it. Then finally on the right, above the glorious autumn colours, is Sikkilsdalshøa (1778 metres). The lake is Nedre Leirungen at 983 metres.
• The 700 metre wall of Kalvehogde.
• The end of Gjende (984 metres), where we changed our minds and decided to go anyway, and caught the ferry to the start of the walk. On the left are the edges of Knutshøe and Tjønnholstind. On the right is Veslfjellet. The walls are 500 to 700 metres high, with the peaks behind them as much as 1350 metres above the water.
• Looking down Gjende to where our ferry would land. The ferry holds 100 people, and takes half an hour. Today they needed 2 ferries (for a total of about 150 visitors), and took 45 minutes, while fighting the wind. If the weather forecast had been better, the visitor numbers would be far higher - it is a good thing, after all.
• The view from the landing point at Memurubu. From left to right are the slopes of Besshøe, Knutshøe, Tjønnholstind, Sjugurtinden (about 1300 metres). We waited for the Norwegians to speed off up the path, so we could enjoy the tranquility.
• The ferry setting off to collect the remaining 50.
• Crags on Tjønnholstind.
• Light playing games on Gjende, with the glacial clay making the water glow green.
• Light dancing over the trees, showing their beautiful autumn colours.
• Knutshøe.
• Glowing trees.
• Looking up Memurudalen, with Sjugurtinden, the cliffs of Lågtunga (about 1480 metres), and an unnamed 1542 metre peak.
• Autumn at its best.
• Autumn colours on the shrubs of the upper slopes.
• Storådalshøe (1888 metres).
• Hestbekken.
• Memurudalen.
• Autumn shrubs and bushes.
• Apologies for the slightly fuzzy photo, but the picture is too good to leave out.
• The immense glacial amphitheatre of Nørdre Tjønnholet on Tjønnholstind.
• Bukkehamaren (1910 metres) at the end of the ridge from Tjønnholstind.
• The view from the top of the climb onto the ridge; Storådalshøe, the peaks and glaciers of Surtningssue (2368 metres), and Besshøe.
• Right on cue, the rain sweeps in, and we have to exchange our light windproofs for full waterproofs. This sets the scene for most of the rest of the walk, though there were a few breaks where it was possible to take pictures.
• The ridge of Besseggen appearing through the clouds. The nearly vertical drop to the lake is just under 400 metres at its lowest point. The wind was really picking up too, so despite the rain, I could not use the rainproof cover on my bag, as the wind constantly ripped it back off.
• The stunning view of Gjende, with Tjønnholstind towering over the lake to the left, Sjogholstind (2141 metres) and Storådalshøe in the distance, and the Bjørbøltjønne (øøø) lake (1475 metres) on the right.
• The lower end of Gjende, with the Bessvatnet lake sitting at 1373 metres - about 400 metres above it. The main mountains are Veslfjellet, Knutshøe and Bukkehamaren.
• Approaching Besseggen. The wind was so strong here that it was nearly blowing us over, in spite of us having walking poles for extra support.
• Claudio dropping from Bandet onto the pass. The second ferry load has now caught up with us.
• Wind whipping up surface spray on Bessvatnet.
• 400 metres of Bandet.
• Rainbow over Bessvatnet.
• The rocky ridge of Besseggen. It's impressive seeing just how old Norwegians can get while still being able to walk paths like this. Over 60? No problem. 70 might be pushing it if they're female. <Insert comment about wanting to be that active when I am that age.>
• The steepest and narrowest part of Besseggen, about 600 metres above Gjende (there's a grass slope to bounce on about 50 metres down, but it won't stop you), with the wind making it quite unpleasant. The rain was also getting painful, pelted into our backs by the wind.
• The 1638 metre top of Besseggen, where stones go to die.
• The way to Veslfjellet's top, quite boring without the views.
• One of the views, showing the flanks of Nautgardtind (2258 metres).
• The top of Veslfjellet, where each tourist picks up a stone, and throws it on the cairn just in case it is shrinking. OK. The rain had become snow, then freezing rain, and then hail. Turning around was a painful mistake.
• The end of Veslfjellet, over a 500 metre drop, and over 700 metres above Gjende. In the background are Sikkilsdalshøa and Heimdalshøe (1843 metres).
• Won't be so high for too long.
• At least the hail is good for something.
• Snowfield with Nautgardtind.
• Sikkilsdalen, an almost perfect half-pipe.
• The long slope down Veslfjellet. The wind once again forced me not to use the rainproof cover on my bag, and everything in it was absolutely soaked. My camera was also really upset with me, and aside from having too much water on the lens, it didn't want to move the lens any more. I decided to be nice, and leave it alone until I had a chance to dry it.
• Heading back over the plateau past Kalvehøgde.
• Sticks lining the road. At first, this may inspire thoughts of 'huh?', but then the realisation of the extreme weather up here sets in. These help to locate the road in extreme conditions. When too much snow covers the road, gates at each end are closed.
• Bitihorn (1607 metres) and Synshorn/Heimre Fagerdalshøe (1475/1510 metres).
• Sunset over Østre Fagerdalshøe (1504 metres).
• The road past Bitihorn.
• Vinstre lake (1032 metres).
• Bygdin lake (1057 metres).
• View across the valley towards Øyangen from Båtskaret.
• The last view of the autumn, in the farming valleys around Fagernes.

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