Northern Waterfalls Round V
Cwm Rhaeadr Waterfall, Rhaeadr Rhosan, Merchon Falls, Ciloerwynt Falls, Glyn Tarell, Ffrwd Wen, Pwll y March, Sgwd y Ffrwd, Sgwd Wen. Can I call the southern half of Mid Wales complete enough now? Please?
Cwm Rhaeadr Waterfall, Rhaeadr Rhosan
Just north of Cilycwm, near Llandovery, is the Cwm Rhaeadr recreation forest - previously called Cwm-y-Rhaiadr. There are official cycle routes and walking routes, but the walking routes do not give good views, only "catching a glimpse of the waterfall through the trees". The main cycling route is much better, and although not all of it can be used by walkers, the important parts can. This walk uses part of the cycle route, and then takes a lesser footpath to see the lower parts of the waterfall hidden by the trees. After that, it continues into the Rhosan Valley, to see the other set of waterfalls ignored by the official routes. It is best done early in the morning, to get the best daylight in both valleys. Rhosan in particular is so narrow that it only gets sunlight at around 10:00 am.
- From the car park, take the main dirt track past the upper car park. It swings left (you can cut the corner with a footpath), then forks. Take the right fork. As it climbs gently, it dips into two tiny side valleys, each with a hairpin.
- Just before the first tiny valley, a view through the trees shows the top stages of the waterfall, and the top of the biggest section. The top stages are a bit over 30 metres tall in total.
- After the second tiny valley, the trees clear, and there is an excellent viewpoint over the main waterfall. The stream is Nant y Rhaeadr (stream of the waterfall), the cliff is Craig y Rhaeadr (crag of the waterfall), the valley is Cwm Rhaeadr (waterfall valley), but the massive waterfall itself has no name, referred to on the map as just "waterfall". Huh? Yeah. So it's just the Cwm Rhaeadr Waterfall.
- Superb view over the valley, with the Dovey Valley in the distance. Just past here, walkers are not allowed to continue, which is fine, since there is nothing more to see. Instead, return to the last hairpin, and take a side path down into the valley. Follow it down to the track, then continue along that towards the waterfall. It crosses the outflow stream, where a path heads upstream along the left bank, climbing up to the hidden parts of the waterfall.
- The main cascade of the Cwm Rhaeadr Waterfall. Only the top 14 metres of this can be seen from the upper track, but it continues much further below the trees.
- The hidden part of the main cascade. This is around 8 metres high, giving a total height for the main cascade of at least 22 metres.
- Below are a series of pretty cascades that drop for another 12 metres.
- Another few cascades complete the waterfall, with this one being around 4 metres tall. In total, the waterfall is around 80 metres tall (according to the maps), and only a little over half of that can be seen from the upper track.
- Tumbling stream below the waterfall.
- Return to the track, turn right, and follow it to the Cwm Rhaeadr barn. Just behind it, take a track to the right, and when that ends, take a path to the right up to a gate into open countryside.
- The path to the left heads into the Nant Rhosan Valley. Just before it dips down to cross the (normally dry at this point) stream bed, a sheep track on the right offers the easiest views of the main waterfalls. Take care though, since it is a poorly defined track, and the valley sides are very steep. I took a higher sheep track at the start of the path instead.
- View of the majority of the waterfalls from my path. You can get a good sense of the height and steepness from the tree near the bottom.
- Cascades near the top of the stream.
- Of course, being me, I had to see all of it, just in case, so I struggled down this horrible terrain, scrambling around crags, and wading through gorse and heather.
- Early cascades - note the nicely hidden cascades tucked under the grass, just to catch you out if you try walking down here.
- Small spout.
- Cascades, about 4 metres tall in total. After these, a short stream leads to the top of the main waterfalls.
- The top waterfall of Rhaeadr Rhosan, about 4 metres tall.
- The main waterfall of Rhaeadr Rhosan, about 11 metres tall.
- Cascades dropping abother 10 metres.
- The lower 10 metres of waterfall, followed by several cascades.
- The bottom 4 metres of cascades, ending about 45 metres below the top of Rhaeadr Rhosan.
- 'Cos that's not confusing at all. (Yes, it does make sense once you know what the signs are supposed to represent, but it's still a very unfortunate choice of symbols.)
- You can return to the car park through the forestry tracks, or take my route; head back towards where you entered the public access land, and just before it, a damp path on the right leads down to the road past fields with some nice views over the Towy Valley. At the road at the end, turn left and follow it back to the car park.
- Leafless and lifeless.
Merchon Falls
- Between Cwm Rhaeadr and Cilycwm is the Glangwenlais Caravan Park. Head up their drive, and through their yard (through the gate just to the right of the house - the 1:25'000 map is poorly drawn, but the owners are helpful if you get it wrong). Once through the gate leading out through their yard, take the kissing gate to the bridge crossing the Gwenlais River. Just after this, turn right into the next farm yard, and onto the path behind it.
- The path leads out to a dirt track. Turn right.
- Allt Neuadd-fawr.
- Autumn in the oak leaves.
- Cross the river via the road bridge. Just beyond is a house at Eithin, backed by the slopes of Mynydd Mallaen (459 metres). After this, the track splits, with the footpath heading up ahead then dropping to ford the river on the left. I am told that the owners have made the bridge to the left a concessionary footpath so you can pick up the path without fording the river.
- Autumn oak.
- Joining of the Merchon and Gwenlais rivers. The official path heads down to the left here to cross the field on the left, picking up the second line of trees that cross the field. On the left is the obvious peak and crag of Rhiw Cilgwyn (412 metres).
- Follow the edge of the Merchon until it meets a tree-lined fence heading up to the right. Follow the fence up to the remains of the Cwm-Merchon farm. Go through the farm, staying near the top of the fields, which are accompanied by grand trees looking like something from a country mansion grounds.
- At the end, a gateway marks the start of the open access land. Continue along the path to the remains of a tiny quarry. From there, there is no good path, though the first waterfall can be reached without too much difficulty.
- Buzzard.
- Small cascades in the stream.
- The 3 metre bottom spout of Merchon Falls. It is not possible to get behind.
- Just above it, Merchon Falls continues with this 5 metre waterfall. There is no path to get above this (I scrambled the left bank, and got attacked by some hawthorn trees for my trouble).
- Cascades between the waterfalls.
- Cascades.
- The top 8 metre waterfall of Merchon Falls. Though the ricocheting splash looks cool, it is hard to justify the effort needed to reach this one.
- It is hard and dangerous to get above the waterfall, and there is not much to see above it (unless you want to walk the mountains, in which case it's easier to take a dedicated path).
- On the way back, I made the mistake of taking an alternative path behind Eithin. Seemed nice at first.
- Turns into squelching mud as it passes Gwalrhedyn.
- Just afterwards, it passes through a fenced section along the edge of a field (for no apparent reason, since the field itself would provide a much easier route along its edge). This is a footpath, honest. 2 metre tall nettles, brambles, and hawthorn. I managed to follow the right side by the fence until...
- Oh now come on! This is more like a public joke than a public footpath. After jumping over the thorn branches, I beat my way through the nettles to the gate. This is one of those places where it is really tempting to just cross the private land instead.
- A few tracks later, and I was back at Glangwenlais, looking back towards Banc Main (339 metres), the ridge between the rivers.
Ciloerwynt Falls
- Claerwen Reservoir.
- Claerwen Dam, am impressive 56 metres high, and 355 metres long - largest of the Elan Valley reservoirs.
- The Arban valley. This has its own tributaries with their own tiny cascades.
- The superb Claerwen Valley, with Pen Garn-ddu (467 metres) on the left, Craig Llanerch-y-cawr and Gorllwyn (613 metres) ahead, and Waun Lydan (505 metres) on the left. Gorllwyn is one of the two Elan Valley mountain summits.
- Something must have changed at the Claerwen Reservoir - probably topped up by recent rain - because the upper set of Ciloerwynt Falls had turned from a boring cascade into a thundering 4 metre waterfall, with a violent splash almost reaching back up to the top of the waterfall again.
- Chokes. Take care when visiting this waterfall - falling in would prove lethal.
- Rowan showing its autumn colours.
- Autumn at the Claerwen.
- Autumn at Pen Garn-ddu.
- The high water levels had completely transformed the lower waterfall of Ciloerwynt Falls, raising the water by a number of metres, making it look like a totally different place.
- Low flow, for comparison. Try looking at the tree on the left, or try to match the sloping beds on the right between the two pictures.
- Garreg-ddu Reservoir, in the Elan branch of the valley.
Glyn Tarell
Ffrwd Wen
- View of the main Brecon Beacons in South Wales from Mynydd Epynt in Mid Wales. From left to right are Waun Rydd (769 metres), Gwaun Cerrig Llwydion (754 metres), Fan y Bîg (719 metres), Cribyn (795 metres), Pen y Fan (886 metres) and Corn Du (873 metres).
- The majority of the Epynt range is dedicated to the military for use as an artillery range (note the two white targets in this picture). This means that to explore it, you need to keep an eye on the marker flags and keep out when you're told to. In general, it is ignored by hill walkers.
- The upper Honddu valley in the Epynt range - not related to the Honddu in the Black Mountains.
- The highest point in the Epynt range has no name, but it's only 478 metres anyway, so it's not like it matters too much.
- At the top of Blaen Duhonw, right beside the B4519, is a little cottage and cascade, sharing the same name; Ffrwd Wen (white torrent). Sadly it was neither ffrwd nor wen, and even the little waterfalls marked on the map downstream were pathetic little steps.
- Right on cue, a minibus and two coaches of squaddies pulled out in front of us, slowing us to 20 MPH. Argh. Then slowed down to 4 MPH as some farmers herded their sheep into their way as well. We crawled over the hill - I actually got out of the car, and went on foot with the camera to take this picture, before returning to drive the car.
- Superb view of an inversion over the Irfon Valley below Cwm Graig-ddû.
- View over the Irfon towards the mountains at the south of the Elan Valley, the edge of Elenydd (the Desert of Wales). On the far left is Mynydd Mallaen, in the middle is Drygarn Fawr (645 metres, taller of the Elan Valley mountains), and on the right is Gorllwyn.
- Sea of mist beside Banc y Cwm, with defiant trees clinging to the shore.
- Finally onto the A roads, wait ... shouldn't this only happen on back roads? A steaming flock of sheep holding the traffic up yet again, including farmers with their livestock trailers.
- Must be national livestock-moving day.
Pwll y March, Sgwd y Ffrwd
North of Llanwrtyd Wells is the tiny village of Abergwesyn. Just beyond that is a parking area at Bryndolau. The walk starts 400 metres beyond it, at a track leading up to some farms on the left, just before the road crosses the Afon Gwesyn.
- Head up the track, then turn right onto another track. The woods here were a beautiful mixture of autumn colours.
- The track slowly drops to the edge of the river.
- Then there's the ford. There are stepping stones, but these won't be much use in higher flow. There is no alternative path, so you may need wellies in wetter weather.
- On the far side, the track rises, then swings left and levels out. At that point the footpath continues ahead, but can be very difficult to see - we missed it.
- Beautiful shades of autumn at the edge of Coed Tŷ-mawr.
- Coed Tŷ-mawr.
- Gwesyn cascade.
- Poor buzzard being chased away by an entire flock of crows.
- Waterfall at Trysgol.
- At last the scenery opens up, and the valley narrows down to the start of the proper Cwm Gwesyn. On the right is Pen Carreg-dân (494 metres)
- At the start of the narrower valley, hidden below the fence, is Pwll y March. In this part of Wales, they seem to name the pools in the river but not waterfalls. This makes it easy to see why; a small waterfall, just 3 metres tall, drops into a very deep plunge pool, caused by scouring action, just like those in the Ogof Ffynnon Ddu streamway. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it was 10 metres deep. Many of the pools don't even have a waterfall.
- 1 metre cascade above it. These make it difficult to get downstream to see the main waterfall, and it is not safe to descend to it from the near bank. The best way to get to it is to cross further upstream at a point you are comfortable with, then find some route to head downstream to the main waterfall.
- Breaking out into wonderful, remote-feeling countryside.
- Twin spouts in the river.
- Nant Fedwen-fawr.
- One of the Fedwen-fawr spouts. Looks like it hangs cleanly from a distance, but it's actually a dark stained wall, not an undercut. I had to check, right?
- Then we accidentally stepped out of Wales, and ended up in the Scottish highlands.
- At the end of the valley is Sgwd y Ffrwd, a relatively large waterfall. The main fall is around 10 metres tall, though it only falls in drops of upto 4 metres.
- Upper waterfall, about 4 metres tall.
- Upper cascades.
- Above, the bog continues to the summit of Drygarn Fawr.
- Beside the waterfall, a side stream enters. Its name; Nant y Ffrwd - the torrent stream - suggests something impressive.
- 6 metres of "Wow! Careful you don't wash me away in this torrential stream!". Yeah.
- Still, good view from up here.
Sgwd Wen
- At Berthddu, just east of Llanwrtyd Wells, take a narrow road heading north. Stop in at the Ty'n-y-maes farm to ask for permission to visit - the owner (currently Tyssul) was happy for us to visit. Take the track at the back of the farm, heading up into the Nant y Cae valley.
- The track climbs steeply up the valley, but the waterfall is completely hidden from above by the foliage.
- When the track levels out, the waterfall is directly below. Be warned that it is difficult to get down to, and if you slip, you could end up falling down it. Take care.
- The top part of the Sgwd Wen waterfall, about 6 metres tall.
- The main 8 metre part of Sgwd Wen. It's tough to take a picture of though, since a tree has fallen on the bottom of it, completely blocking the view from below.
- Yours truly, in action, in the tree. How else could such pictures be taken?
- The bottom section of Sgwd Wen, about 3 metres high.
- Small cascade a little downstream.
- And another below that. The End.