Waterfalls Reprise 2024
Merlin's Pool/Craflwyn Waterfalls and Hyrddod Waterfalls, which had eluded my list for 15 years, and revisiting Pistyll Cain and Rhaeadr Mawddach.
Craflwyn Estate
The Craflwyn Estate is a tourist destination near Beddgelert in North Wales. It has parking, which is sometimes stated as free with a suggested donation, but other visitors who used it told us they had been obliged to pay. Because of this, and because it has gates that could potentially be closed, I chose to start the waterfall walk at a nearby free location, near the Sygun Copper Mine. Its waterfalls are mostly marked on the maps, but without any names. In the last few years, the National Trust reworked the estate's paths, specifically to improve access to the waterfalls. They were then mentioned on their website as a specific attraction (the Internet Archive recorded it first in 2023).
The National Trust do not name the waterfalls at all, but refer to the lowest waterfall's plunge pool as "Merlin's pool" (yes, lower case), and that is first known to have been mentioned in 2021. Strictly speaking, they do not actually name the pool - they mention it as a pool from a Merlin legend which is based in the estate - but because this is written on their website, some people have since adopted it as a name for the waterfall, and often upper-cased the letter. The Internet, however, disagrees, and it had previously been referred to unimaginatively as "Craflwyn waterfall" (particularly on the Geograph website in 2006). Neither name is official, both are used. And I would like to mention that the pool in the Merlin legend is supposed to be hidden underground, so it is not consistent with the legend, and is all a tourist gimmick anyway. But whatever, the waterfall now has two names, deal with it.
The upper waterfalls do not have any official name. Both sets of waterfalls are on the unimaginatively named Afon-y-cwm (river of the valley), so calling one set of them "Afon-y-cwm waterfalls" would be very confusing. As a result, I refer to the upper set as Hyrddod Waterfalls (say "her thod", with a voiced th like in "this"), because they are formed by the Afon-y-cwm spilling out of the Cwm yr Hyrddod hanging valley (meaning valley of the rams).
An important part of the Arthurian legends are based here, which give rise to the dragon symbol used on the Welsh flag. The legend written by Welsh monk Nennius in the Latin book Historia Brittonum in 828 CE - one of many variations of the Welsh Dragon legend, which was based on existing legends - is that Celtic warrior king Vortigern, who lived around 450 CE (assuming he was real, evidence is lacking), wanted to build a castle to defend against the invading Saxons, but each night, the walls would fall down. He was told by his advisors that it is a curse, and he must sacrifice a boy who was born of a virgin mother (this story sounds awfully familiar!). After searching for the boy, it turned out that the boy, has prophetic abilities (gee, I wonder where a monk might get the idea for this story from). In the book, the boy is named Ambrosius, a Latin name meaning "immortal", whose Welsh form is Emrys. Ambrosius told him that the red Welsh Dragon and the white English/Saxon dragon were fighting beneath the mountain each night, at an underground pool, shaking the mountain so that the walls fell. Vortigern's men tunnelled into the mountain to release the dragons, and the dragons fought until the red Welsh Dragon chased away the white English dragon. The red dragon returned to its lair, to sleep peacefully beneath the mountain. Vortigern spared Ambrosius's life, and had the Dinas Emrys castle built, named in Welsh after Ambrosius. After Vortigern's death, he was succeeded by Ambrosius, presumed to be the boy from earlier, who had become a respected leader, and who would have therefore inherited the castle. Ambrosius is typically assumed to be legendary Celtic leader Ambrosius Aurelianus, known in Welsh as Emrys Wledig, who supposedly fought against the Saxons. The book also describes the legendary Arthur (spelled like that, without a surname), but he is mentioned only as a Celtic leader who also fought against the Saxons, not associated with Ambrosius.
The character Myrddin Wyllt (Merlin the wild), later also known as Myrddin Emrys (Merlin the immortal), appeared in Welsh folklore in a series of poems around 800-1000 CE (such as Armes Prydein in about 930 CE), with some describing him living wild in the forests of northern Scotland, writing poetry, and developing prophetic abilities. In Scotland, he was previously known as Lailoken, but some of the Welsh stories are likely to be independently developed, and combined with the Lailoken stories, with some of the stories possibly dating from around 500-700 CE. Geoffrey of Monmouth's 1136 book Historia Regum Britanniae then rewrote Nennius's stories, renamed the prophetic boy as Merlinus (Merlin), after the Welsh Myrddin Wyllt. It mentions Ambrosius Aurelianus as a separate person from Merlin, with Merlin based on the existing Myrddin Wyllt and Ambrosius's Dinas Emrys legends, and Ambrosius Aurelianus being treated as just being a Celtic leader, not a prophetic boy. It gave the new stories of Arthur Pendragon (now with a surname), such as the Sword In The Stone and the Lady Of The Lake. Merlin was now given the role of advisor to Arthur Pendragon and his father Uther Pendragon.
Though the Welsh later adopted the red dragon onto the flag, it should be noted that the dragon symbol itself came into Britain from the Romans (who learned about it from various Middle Eastern cultures), who often depicted them with just a solid head and a fluttering fabric tail, without legs or wings. It was adopted by the Celtic Britons as a symbol of fierce warriors, with leaders like the mythical Mynyddog Mwynfawr (of Scotland or Northern England around 470-550 CE), Owain Gwynedd (reign 1137-1170), Llywelyn ap Gruffudd (reign 1246-1282) and Owain Glyndŵr (reign 1400-1409) often being described as dragons. Other British regions had their own dragons (4 legs, 2 wings), wyverns (2 legs, 2 wings), amphiptere (no legs, 2 wings) and wyrms (no legs or wings), such as the Saxon Kingom Of Wessex using a golden wyvern in 752 CE, and a red, white and golden wyvern in 1066. Other cultures also had drakes (4 legs, no wings) and lindworms (2 legs, no wings). Some cultures have other variations too, such as the Greek hydra, a wyrm with multiple heads (though Western adaptations often depict it as a drake), and sea serpents, which are typically depicted as wyrms with dorsal frills and tail fins, but sometimes have pectoral fins. (The Chinese lóng is typically a drake with a very long body, but sometimes a wyrm or lindworm instead. It normally has scales but sometimes has fur, such as a mane or whiskers. There are many other types, including some with fish bodies and fins.)
The Welsh Dragon was first described as being red by Nennius, and a yellow wyvern symbol on a white background, with a yellow border, was used by Owain Glyndŵr. The current colours of the flag are in fact the colours of the House of Tudor (originally from Anglesey), and a red dragon on a white and green background (along with a motto, fireballs, and the English flag of St. George!) was first used by King Henry VII Tudor in 1485 as a part of his battle standard, while taking over England, and establishing the Tudor dynasty. The modern Welsh flag design is from 1959, and is a simplified version of that battle standard.
- Misty beginnings over the Afon Glaslyn.
- Llyn Gwynant.
- The shore of Llyn Gwynant.
- Cloud forest at Y Wenallt.
- Gallt y Wenallt (619 metres), breaking through the clouds.
- Our walk started at the banks of the Afon Glaslyn.
- A study in green.
- The flanks of Craig Wen (605 metres), with both its head and the head of Yr Aran (747 metres) in the clouds, where they would remain all day. What are they like? The Afon-y-cwm flows through the gorge between the two outcrops on the right, and the top of the lower set of waterfalls can be seen from here.
- Clouds lifting on Gallt y Llyn (338 metres). The forested hill on the right is the edge of Dinas Emrys.
- Craflwyn Hall, a Victorian country manor, where our route went up through the gate on its right side to reach the terraced cottages behind it. The building date from the late 1890s, while the estate itself dates from the 1870s, owned by gentleman Llywelyn England Sidney (a curious name mixing three nationalities, but what else would one expect from a Victorian gentleman?). Both the bedrooms in the main hall, and the terraced cottages behind it, which were once the stables, can be rented for holidays. The main hall is used for weddings.
- The former stables.
- We headed up to the right, then up a path to the main forest path. At each junction, we turned right, to reach this little stream pouring through a gap.
- Carpets of moss in the forest.
- Looking across the valley towards Grib Ddu (318 metres) and Mynydd Sygun (298 metres), in the Moelwynion.
- To the left at this point is a poorly defined path leading up to the upper waterfalls, following the line of that pipe, but we did not relise its significance, and continued beyond it.
- The main path brought us to Merlin's Pool, the waterfall also known as Craflwyn Waterfall. It has a distinctively lovely character, with the water leaping repeatedly into little pools on its way down. The waterfall is not particularly tall, at only about 7 metres in total.
- The distinctive and very well made clapper bridge at Merlin's Pool.
- To reach the upper waterfalls, we ascended a slope on the right bank. Although there is a rather poor path here, it is much less convenient than the one on the left bank, and we switched to the left bank at the next waterfall.
- The next waterfall forms a wide veil. The left bank has a dry stone wall to provide a viewing spot, which immediately let us know that it was a better choice than the right bank.
- The path above the waterfalls.
- Water slide above the waterfall.
- The next waterfall was obscured by trees, no matter which bank you viewed it from. It is about as tall as the bottom waterfall.
- Looking down from the top. The path on the right bank dies out just upstream, while the path on the left bank continued.
- The next waterfall has a very large, deep pool. It was clearly used for swimming, and even has a sandy area for changing. However, I would strongly discourage swimming in this area, for reasons given three pictures later...
- Cascades upstream.
- Cascade with a pool.
- Waterfall at the top of the gorge, with a very deep plunge pool. The path on the left dies out here, and although there is one more pool upstream, there do not appear to be any more waterfalls. While taking this picture, I toppled backwards, and leaned against a grassy rock to keep my balance. Upon standing, I noticed a tick crawling across my arm, and brushed it away. An inspection revealed two more on my leg between my boots and my shorts, one just preparing to feed. A few probable leech larvae were mixed in with some identical looking seeds on my arms. My companion, who had completely covered legs and arms, did not initially seem to have any, but by the next day, found three ticks had made their way under clothing, and were busy feasting. This gorge must be teeming with them, and is absolutely not suitable for swimming. Even for walking, tick season is best avoided.
- Continuing on the main path up a valley flanked with woodlands. Dinas Emrys is on the right, but does not look special from here.
- The path splits, with the left path heading to the waterfalls, and the right path leading to Dinas Emrys.
- A split in the Dinas Emrys path, where to the right leads to the top.
- Mossy crags on the Dinas Emrys path.
- The glorious view at the top of Dinas Emrys (137 metres). Craig Wen, Yr Aran, Gallt y Llyn, Cnicht (689 metres), Grib Ddu, Mynydd Sygun, the Moel Hebog range completely hidden in the clouds, and the Dinas hill fort.
- Tree on Dinas Emrys, with Grib Ddu.
- It seems very unusual to have a visible stone wall on an iron age hill fort, but it does at least fit in with the legend.
- A cleft in the castle summit contains more walls, but these appear to be a more modern dry stone wall, and could be a sheepfold. We returned to the waterfall route.
- Moth, which appears to be an angle shades, trying to dry off. It seemed to have rained a lot recently, in spite of us not experiencing it a little further north.
- The waterfall path then joins a track in front of Gallt y Llyn. The way on is up the zig-zags to the left.
- The track then reaches a very flat area, and soon reaches a junction with a bridge to the left, and a gate ahead. We would cross the bridge later, but first, we were heading towards the upper waterfalls.
- The Afon-y-cwm then ignores the plateau, and climbs up the slopes to reach the Cwm yr Hyrddod hanging valley, which is hidden in the clouds, separating Craig Wen and Yr Aran. Out route would take us about ⅔ of the way up this picture.
- Cascade below the waterfalls.
- Oily secreations from a chalybeate (iron-rich) spring. It does not appear to be man made, although there are old copper mines about 1 km further up the valley. The rock is volcanic tuff, so iron would be quite normal, but the oil seems to be organic, such as from decaying plants. It may be a result of acid mine drainage causing the plants to decay.
- The lowest of the Hyrddod Waterfalls is quite visible from the track. The Hafod y Porth Copper Mine is at the upper part of the valley ahead.
- Upper clapper bridge. Our route leaves the track just after this, to head over to the waterfalls, fording a boggy stream on the way. There is a path running up the right side of the stream, but it is too far away to see the waterfalls well, and each waterfall needs to be approached without a path. The path appears to be a sheep drover's path, and may not always be visible.
- Tiny cascades.
- Bottom bench of the main Hyrddod Waterfalls.
- The main waterfall of Hyrddod Waterfalls. It is in two steps, each around 9 metres tall. Sadly, like all of the waterfalls here, the path does not get close enough to see it properly.
- The upper bench of the main waterfall, seen from the path.
- A wall over the stream with a gap. This appears to be a breached dam, and probably relates to the mining. The mountains are Yr Arddu (max. 463 metres), Moel y Dyniewyd (382 metres), Grib Ddu and Mynydd Sygun, looking as rugged as you expect the Moelwynion to look.
- Smaller waterfalls.
- Waterfall with a distinctive slab above it. While it looks like concrete, it is natural.
- Detailed marbling.
- Twisting layers of rock.
- The last few cascades before the wall.
- Just beyond the wall is the nicest of the upper Hyrddod waterfalls, with a series of sheepfolds around it. There are paths leading on up the mountain, or over to the mines, but all of these add distance without any more waterfalls, so our route ended here.
- The maze of sheepfolds, with Gallt y Llyn in the background, and the waterfall on the right.
- Moss on the walls.
- A tiny waterfall lies upstream, where it pours out of Cwm yr Hyrddod, but it was not worthy of trudging through the rain, so we turned around and headed back down to the track.
- Now back on the main loop, and approaching the abandoned house at the far side of the bridge. The orange cattle appear to be limousin, while the blacks may be Welsh black. The calves appear to be hybrids.
- Slug with a racing stripe. We did notice some extremely fast slugs around here.
- Following the fence. The mountains are some bumps on Yr Aran, Gallt y Llyn, Yr Arddu, Moel y Dyniewyd and Grib Ddu.
- Steps over the wall, and a bridge over the stream. It was time to start looking for the way back down, which turned out to be a very obvious path junction, just after a very wet section of path.
- Corkscrew tree.
- Giant's Chair, at the top of the main descent.
- View from the Giant's Chair. Normally there would be a far more extensive view with a lot more mountains, but we only saw Grib Ddu and Mynydd Sygun, though the colours of the heather, forests and fields made up for it.
- Descending through a mossy forest. The descent reaches the path from much earlier, and the route turns right, passing the way we had originally walked up from the stables.
- A short descent then reaches the beautiful mossy waterfall. In spite of the paths all being inundated with water, the waterfall had only a small dribble, but other pictures show that it can have a lot more water in winter.
- Moss on the waterfall.
- Crossing a small clapper bridge below the waterfall.
- Tall trees just above Craflwyn Hall. The route turns left here.
- Moss on the base of the trees.
- Being bitten by the carved dragon bench.
- Richly coloured carpet.
- Small dam, which was presumably used by Craflwyn Hall, but may have been a mining relic.
- Ruin hiding in the forest at Craflwyn Hall.
Coed-y-Brenin
- Very tall trees at the parking area for the waterfalls.
- Black water at the Afon Mawddach. The river was in flood, and there must have been a lot more rain at this end of the park.
- Pistyll Cain is a very impressive waterfall, but sadly the main viewpoint is a bridge quite a distance downstream. The land owners onviously have been trying to dissuade people from getting a better view, rather than doing the right thing and allowing a proper path to be constructed. This is such a shame, and incredibly selfish. It is hard to imagine how they can justify their attitude, given that they are not putting this land to any other use, and it could very easily be turned into a proper path by the national park.
- The twin waterfalls. The left branch only forms in high water, and looks artificial. Perhaps it was a leat when this area was being used for gold mining.
- The waterfall to the side of the main spout.
- The upper waterfall, which is now not only guarded by scary signs, but a fence, and a warning that gorge walking is no longer allowed either, even though it used to be. Without knowing what caused this, it is hard to know, but I think the most likely explanation is that they are terrified of litigation, and rather than saying that it is fine, as long as groups have appropriate insurance and do so at their own risk, the owners would prefer to treat everyone else like a malicious foreign invader. Extremely selfish attitude, and something that I do not believe should be acceptable at a natural spectacle in a national park.
- Narrow gorge downstream of the bridge.
- Rhaeadr Mawddach. Since my last visit, access through the former gold mining site has been heavily restricted, with fences everywhere. This is now the closest that it is possible to get while seeing the face of the waterfall, and ugly fences mar the view. Previously, you could stand on the rocks half way to the waterfall.
- It would be very easy to allow access to the walkway, or add a viewing platform to see it like this. But the hydroelectric company that use the waterfall clearly do not want to cater to anyone except themselves. Presumably we mere mortals should be eternally grateful that we are allowed to walk near their ugly constructions without having a guard dog chasing us away. National parks are supposed to be here for people to enjoy natural spectacles. They do not seem to have got the memo.
- The view from the top of Rhaeadr Mawdach. This is the only view they make easy, and I think they need to know that waterfalls do not look anything like as good from the top.
- The weir and cascade above Rhaeadr Mawddach.
- Luminous moss.
- Small waterfall beside the track on the other side of the river.
- The much better waterfall beside the track.
- Moss in a wide clearing.
- Moss lumps.
- Moss trying to take over the trees.
- Moss almost taking over a wall.
- Net stocking.
- Bridge leading back over the Afon Mawddach.
- Raging river upstream of the bridge.
- Churning river downstream of the bridge.
- Moss heart, so bright it looks like it is glowing.
- Mist blowing through the trees, as we reach the end of the walk.