Ice screw

Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ice and snow

Ice screw

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Ice screw. Picture by Gareth Davies.

A type of anchor consisting of a hanger and hollow bolt, that is screwed into ice, which might be used in ice caves or glacier caves. Many designs have a small handle that can be used to manually turn the ice screw, in order to insert it. The bolt has sharp ends that cut into the ice, allowing the ice chips to fall out through the hollow bolt. The bolt cuts its own threads into the ice, and the threads then hold it in place. Depending on the pull direction (parallel to the ice screw or perpendicular to it), the angle of the ice screw compared with the ice, the length of the ice screw, the quality of the ice, and how long is is given to re-freeze after cutting, the strength can be anywhere between 600 kg and 2250 kg. Unlike a normal anchor, they function best when the load pulls largely on the screw threads, rather than perpendicular to the bolt, since it allows more ice to make contact with the screw. Ice screws can also be used as a drill to prepare an Abalakov thread, and since they are expensive and heavy equipment, an Abalakov thread is often preferred when possible, to avoid having to carry and use too many ice screws.


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