Vertical caving terminology and methods > Knots > Common knots
Common Recommended
A knot normally tied on a bight, but can also be rethreaded. A variation of the butterfly knot which outperforms it in most cases, and can be used in all of the same situations that a butterfly knot might be used. It is slightly stronger (not enough to worry about the difference), and highly resistant to cross loading. It does not capsize into a noose if cross loaded. However, it causes two full twists in the rope for every alpine butterfly that is tied (the butterfly knot does not). If tying several in a row, it can help to twist the first one clockwise, and the second one anticlockwise, and so on. This should help reduce the effect of them twisting, but can be confusing to do if they are tied by wrapping the rope around your hand.
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