Vertical caving terminology and methods > Knots > Common knots
Common There are better alternatives
A knot normally tied on a bight, but can also be rethreaded. Used to create a loop that can be clipped into a carabiner. Designed to be loaded in three different directions at once, including perpendicular to the anchor. Can be easily adjusted and undone when needed. Can be used in the middle of a traverse line, and at a rebelay. Commonly used as one arm of a Y-hang; this variation has the traverse line coming in to one side of the Y. Can be used to attach a carabiner for a pull-through. Must not be used at the start of a rope, as it can undo if not loaded on one side. One of the strongest (when pulled against the loop) and least wasteful of all knots used in rigging. It is somewhat vulnerable to repeated cross loading before the knot has been set, and can capsize into a noose that tightens around whatever it was tied to. It is considered safe enough to clip a cows tail into the loop. Most of its benefits are surpassed by the Alpine butterfly knot, but the butterfly knot has the benefit that it does not introduce twists into the rope. Made from an overhand noose, with a single hitch creating a half hitch structure.
<< Figure of 9 on a bight | Alpine butterfly knot >>
This page is not intended to be viewed this way, please load the entire article. This version exists only to make it easier for search engines to understand the contents.