Bolting

Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ladders, climbs and older techniques

Bolting, bolt climbing

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Bolting. Enterprise Aven, Pwll Dwfn.

Ascending an aven or crossing a traverse, by repeatedly placing anchors higher and higher or further and further, until you reach the target. This is used during initial exploration, in places where free climbing is not possible, and it is not possible to throw a rope around a natural. Each time an anchor is placed, the climber transfers their weight to the new anchor, typically using etriers, so that they can then place another anchor even higher using a drill or bolting tool. After transferring to a new anchor, the etrier on the previous anchor can be removed, and used for the next one instead. At all times, the caver should be connected securely to an anchor using cows tails, perhaps also using a progression hook while placing the next anchor. A lifeline is normally used, using bottom belaying. A variation of self belaying might be used instead of bottom belaying, by connecting the lifeline at the bottom, running it through carabiners at each anchor, and connecting the climber to it with a belay device, paying out the rope as they go. Another alternative to using etriers is to use short ropes on each anchor (or each end of the same rope), and keep switching from rope to rope, using prusiking to gain height, but this method does not allow a very high reach when placing the next anchor. The anchors can be temporary/reusable (such as a Petzl Coeur), or permanent (such as spit nuts or through bolts). Once the top is reached, permanent anchors and a fixed rope can be installed.


Bolting can also refer to initially placing anchors onto a pitch, which can then be used in future.


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