Vertical caving terminology and methods > Knots > Common knots
Common Use with caution
A hitch tied on a bight or by threading, that should almost never be used. Sometimes used as a way to connect a sling to a natural, but it would be better to simply clip both ends of the sling into a carabiner, which increases the strength by doubling the sling, rather than reducing it by adding a knot. With a nylon sling, it weakens the sling by 15-50% (nobody seems to be able to agree on the numbers, so it may relate to the width of the sling), but with Dyneema, it reduces it by much more, sometimes significantly over half (75% in some tests). However, it may be used if the sling needs to grip the natural more tightly to avoid slipping off. Users of this knot should be reminded of the disadvantages of its use. A doubled girth hitch does have some valid uses, such as turning a sling into a spreader, with the advantage that it reverts (without capsizing) to a doubled cow hitch (the same knot, but with only one side loaded) if one side is damaged. This must never be done with a Dyneema sling, however, because the knot can slip undone under load. Made from two opposing single hitches. If tied around another rope, it is the same structure as a reef knot or strop bend that has capsized. Climbers may be seen using a girth X or clove X for similar purposes, which perform much better with Dyneema slings, but since they are not seen in caving, they are not covered here.
<< Two half hitches | Italian hitch, Munter hitch, HMS, crossing hitch, super Italian hitch, super Munter hitch >>
This page is not intended to be viewed this way, please load the entire article. This version exists only to make it easier for search engines to understand the contents.