Tensionless hitch

Vertical caving terminology and methods > Knots > Common knots

Tensionless hitch, tensionless anchor, tensionless wrap

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A tenionless hitch used for connecting the rope to a natural for use with the indestructible rope technique. In this case, the final knot is a figure of 8 on a bight, with a carabiner clipped around the loaded rope. The wrap turns very gentle corners, and the final knot is not performing a load bearing function. The maximum strength of the rope has been preserved. The rope rub protector is used to avoid damaging the tree.
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A poorly configured tenionless hitch. In this case, the final knot is a stopped bowline, threaded around the loaded rope. The wrap turns sharper corners than it is supposed to, does not have enough turns, and the final knot pulls against the loaded rope, so it is actually holding some of the load, so this has not been set up correctly.

Common in USA

A method used to tie a rope to a natural as part of the indestructible rope technique. This method preserves the maximum breaking strength of the rope, as it does not rely on the final knot to provide any of the strength. The rope is wrapped multiple times around a large natural, such as a tree or boulder, with the rope only turning large radius bends. The natural should be at least 8 times as thick as the rope, and bigger is much better. After several turns, the friction provides enough grip for the rope to provide its full strength. The exact number of turns will depend on the friction of the rope and how smooth the object is that it is being wrapped around, but 4-6 turns is normally about right. This can waste a very large amount of rope, depending on how large the natural is, and how many turns are needed; 20 metres of rope could easily be wasted on a single natural. The tail of the wrapped rope is then tied in a hitch or loop knot, either threaded directly around the loaded rope, or with a carabiner that is clipped into the loop, and around the loaded rope. When threading the knot around the loaded rope, it is common to use a bowline (a format known as a "running bowline", but with the tensionless hitch tied in the noose of the running bowline). When using a carabiner, is is common to use a figure of 8 on a bight. However, many other knots could be used for this purpose. The connection to the loaded rope is only used as a safety measure, just in case there is not enough friction, and to prevent people, animals, wind or water from unwrapping it unintentionally. If it has been configured correctly, the final hitch or loop knot is not loaded at all, and does not provide any of the strength. It can actually be left hanging loosely, which is why it is called tensionless, since the final knot is not put under any tension. This technique is not used at all in Britain, and is almost exclusively used in parts of the USA where indestructible rope technique is used. The terms come from the USA, and there is no British equivalent.

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