Tension traverse

Vertical caving terminology and methods > SRT basic terms

Tension traverse, sloping Tyrolean traverse (sometimes "guided descent" in Australia and other countries)

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Abseiling on a tension traverse, with the main rope in white, and the tension traverse's rope in yellow.

A relatively loose Tyrolean traverse used on a steep slope next to the main rope, to guide cavers away from a hazard such as a waterfall, such that the weight is never really transferred to the Tyrolean rope. The caver abseils or prusiks on the main rope like normal, and is connected to the Tyrolean traverse using a cows tail, optionally using a pulley. In this case, it acts as a tensioned guideline, rather than an actual Tyrolean traverse, so it does not need to be tensioned as much as a normal Tyrolean traverse. The bottom of the main rope is usually tied in a long pendulum loop to the end of the tension traverse, to ensure that it can always be reached in order to prusik up the pitch. Prusiking can be fairly clumsy, since the sideways pull causes a more sloping body posture, and it can also make it harder to trap the down rope between the feet for bottom weighting. Performing a mid-rope changeover can be very difficult, because of the sideways pull, and the cows tails being in the way. Tension traverses are uncommon in Britain, but may be seen in European caving, particularly in France.


In Australia, the term "tension traverse" may refer to a series of rebelays with pendulum loops used in a row to try to diagonally cross a wall. In climbing, it refers to the use of a top rope to actively provide support while climbing sideways across a wall, a type of aid climbing.


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