| Where | Taff Trail from Cardiff to Brecon and back (Brecon Beacons and South Wales) |
|---|---|
| Date | 16 December 2006 |
| Duration | 13 hours 45 minutes |
| Distance | 111 miles (~179 km) |
| Weather | Cold sunlight with a few clouds on day 1, clouds with occasional light rain on day 2 |
| Trail conditions | Damp roads and track, after several days of rain |
| Rider | Age | Bike(s) |
|---|---|---|
| Mark 'Tarquin' Wilton-Jones | 26 | GT LTS 2000 (TWJ) |
| Peter Wilton-Jones | 28 | Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp |
Trip report
Description by Mark 'Tarquin' Wilton-Jones
Since originally writing this route guide, there have been some improvements to the route, which are included below, marked in the same way as this paragraph. The original route (the one we used) is also included, marked as deleted text.
Starting at the Celtic Ring on the lower board walk in Cardiff Bay, at the end of the Oval Basin (aka Roald Dahl Plas
- who cares, stop renaming stuff). Head up one of the ramps (some may be guarded by 'dismount' signs) and make for the road in front of Techniquest. Directly in
front of Techniquest, turn right into Adelaide Street, then left at its end into the main James Street, and cross the
Clarence Bridge over the River Taff.
Immediately turn right onto the cycle path running along the edge of the river.
Follow the edge of the river along cycle paths and quiet roads, crossing several larger roads, until a final crossing
enters the end of Bute Park after passing the stadium. (Ignore the occasional signs that point to other cycle routes or claim the route has ended,
and stay on the paths that run as close to the left edge of the river as possible.)
Stay on the path running along the edge of the river, until you reach Blackweir, and a narrow suspension bridge with
a single support tower. Cross the bridge, then immediately turn left and follow the trail on the other side of the river. Stay with it for a
couple of miles, passing far too many dog walkers (seriously, watch out for the owners who do not control their dogs
properly, particularly the one with a dog called "Tug" [I think] - the dog has already run in front of several bikes,
and been hit by them as a result, and the owner gets violent if the person on the bike is you).
At the end of a sports field,
the trail turns right (ignore the narrow track ahead) and for the first time since Clarence Bridge, it leaves the edge of the river. It then splits, and the way on follows the left branch. It joins a road
then runs along a path to the left of it.
The path runs beside houses for a while, then after passing a water wheel, it heads back to the river again.
It then picks up some roads and tarmac sections (some of which can be bypassed using a dirt track running a little to the left along
the edge of the river) until it reaches the M4 motorway bridge which passes overhead.
Head under the bridge and pick up the single lane road on the other side (with a nice view of Castell Coch from a bridge to the left of the trail), and
follow the road under the A470 bridge, into Tongwynlais. Turn left on the main Tongwynlais road. As the road dips down,
a road to the right is the older alternative route:
This heads up a gentle slope, then left onto the extremely steep driveway up to Castell Coch, followed by a steep
slope to the right up into Fforest Fawr. It turns left at a junction, then down a fast downhill, followed by a long level
section, which joins the main route later on. This route is much more difficult than the normal route, so for such a
long ride, it may not really be appropriate.
The main route stays with the main Tongwynlais road until it leaves the village, then picks up a cycle lane to the
right of the road. This then splits from the road, and stays on pavements around a roundabout, before dropping and
rising. At an 'end (of cycle lane)' sign in a side road, cross the road, and head the opposite way to rejoin the main
road, then drop down to the right towards Taff's Well station. After a short downhill, the Taff Trail heads off on the
right side of the road, just before a roundabout.
The route climbs steadily (and is the only proper downhill section that can be freewheeled on the way back from
Merthyr). The alternative older route rejoins from the right part way along here. Just after an overhead bridge, the
narrow path to the left is the way on, and climbs up to a crossing over a major road. On the other side it enters a
housing estate, and takes a road to the right before a small climb upto the continuation of the trail, along a dismantled
railway line.
There are several annoying hurdles along this long section, but it is nicely secluded, with occasional good views back
down the valley to Cardiff. At one point it crosses a small road and continues on the other side as a cross between a
cycle route and a back alley between houses. It is often badly littered with broken glass and is always strewn with
other litter.
Finally, near a cemetery,
it drops down and becomes very narrow before joining a road it joins a road, with the way on being to the left at a mini-roundabout immediately afterwards. Follow the road to the left.
It then swings hard left to join a larger road where there is a pedestrian crossing to allow cyclists to cross it if needed. Turn right onto that road and try to relax while the cars speed past you.
The road climbs up a short hill, and the trail then takes a smaller street to the left. This is blocked to cars (but
not bikes) part way along it. At the end of the street, turn right onto a larger road and prepare for the worst part of
the Taff Trail. You are faced with a roundabout, which is one of the major junctions of the A470. Cross your fingers,
and head out onto the roundabout. Try to ignore the idiotic, ignorant drivers, who do not realise that bikes are allowed
on roads. Take the third turnoff, which heads over to the right, after the main turnoff into Pontypridd.
Just before the roundabout, take the pedestrian pavement to the left, following it around the roundabout over a number of crossings, to head along the left side of the road into Pontypridd.
Before reaching the river, cross the road at a crossing, and head back up the other side of the road, and turn left into the housing estate when you reach the roundabout again.
Just in case you thought it was over, prepare for Pontypridd itself. The route follows the one way system through a
housing estate, and there is usually only just enough room for one car, in between rows of parked cars. Stay in the
middle of the road, and make sure cars do not attempt to overtake you until you are good and ready to allow them to.
Keep your eyes open for the Taff Trail signs which guide you through the estate, until you get to the end of the one way
street - on the way back, just after the one way system starts, the trail doubles back hard down a street to the right
and then follows the edge of the river, returning you to the roundabout where you want the third turnoff.
An alley to the right then reaches the Pontypridd road crossing, near the roundabout. The hard turn
to the right does have a sign, but it is easily missed.
Shortly after the one way system ends, turn left onto the final road, and turn left at its end just before it becomes
a private driveway. It then drops down and swings right, back into countryside, and finally, the edge of the river again.
The trail in this section is liable to flooding, but it is usually dry. Even in flood, the path can usually be followed
with care.
After crossing a small bridge, the path heads away from the river, but it can still flood (as on this trip) thanks
to small streams.
Turn right at a junction with another cycle route, and follow a road round to the left and over a bridge,
to join a very unpleasant road, where cars generally do not stick to the speed limit. You may wish to use the pavement
on the other side of the road. Follow the road to the left to some traffic lights, and turn left. At a junction with another
cycle route, cross it into playing fields, and follow a path that makes its way along the edge of the industrial estate,
and beside a sewage works. Cross the works road, and continue to eventually reach Abercynon. Turn left onto the road in front of the terraced houses, to reach the main Abercynon road.
You are rewarded with a view over Abercynon, at some more traffic lights where you must turn right. Note that these
traffic lights cannot see bicycles, and will not change in your favour unless a car is also waiting. You may need to
jump the lights if they refuse to change. The road heads downhill, and turns left.
Turn left onto the main Abercynon road, which immediately turns left. Immediately after the corner, turn
right onto a narrow lane between some workyards - this lane is easy to miss.
The lane follows the edge of the river Taff (you did remember that this is the Taff Trail, right?) and becomes a path
after a few hundred metres, before crossing the river on a narrow bridge. It then crosses a road at Quakers Yard, and
enters some woodland.
This is the Pont-y-gwaith nature reserve. The trail passes over a bridge, and under a viaduct.
It breaks out into the open, with the Craig-yr-Efail crags to the left. After
several more remnants of railway lines (including remains of the supporting stones for the World's first steam railway),
the nature reserve finally ends at a junction with a road.
Turn left and head downhill to a ridiculously steep hump-backed bridge. Cross the bridge, and swing right, climbing
up to a stepped section. Stay on your bike if you can (yes, that means ignoring the stupid 'dismount' signs), by using
the narrow ramp beside the steps, and make your way up to a path on the other side of the A470 - a good time to stop for
lunch.
Turn right, and follow the path. It occasionally climbs, before swinging suddenly downhill to the right, back under
the A470. It swings right again and continues downhill, heading the wrong way along the valley. Take the path that
doubles back to the left. This is the start of one of the easiest parts of the Taff Trail.
Follow the path through Aberfan, remaining as level as possible.
Follow it through the next town. And the one after that, and the one after that, etc. Several times, it crosses roads
and continues on the other side of them. A couple of times, it joins the roads for a moment, but always breaks free again
when the roads attempt to turn a corner.
Finally, it passes under an old, multiple-arched, stone bridge to enter Merthyr Tydfil. After that, it swings to the right around some sports
fields, passes under a bridge, over another smaller bridge, then arrives at a car park. Ignore the signs that say to use
the road to the left, and instead follow the path by the river. Cross the river on the road bridge, then take the path
that heads along the edge of the river on the other side of it (you will need to cross the road that crosses the bridge -
the lights will change in your favour if you press the button, but they may take a long time to do so).
Follow the path until it joins a road. Follow the road until it swings left, then take the cycle path to the right. Cross
the main road, and take the cycle path that heads ahead-right. Turn left onto a smaller road. Take the cycle path to
the left just before some houses, and follow the edge of the river, before climbing up to a road (see if you can stay
on your bike). Turn left, staying on the pavement, and cross the river again. When you reach some traffic lights, cross
the road you were following, and head to the right along the right side of a much larger road.
The trail then turns right into a side road, and passes the remains of the Cyfarthfa Iron Works. Stay on the path as
it weaves and slowly climbs (watch out for one of the hairpin bends on the return...).
At the top of the path is the Cefn Coed Viaduct, and apparently the "other" branch of the Taff Trail leaves
somewhere off to the left, although I am not sure where.
Cross the viaduct (with a nice view over Merthyr and Cyfarthfa Castle), and follow the path past some houses and down a twisting ramp to a road. Turn right, then immediately
left, towards a church. Take the steep, narrow alley to the left of the church, and follow it to the next section of dismantled
railway line.
Stay on the railway line, and follow it along the edge of the Taff Fechan gorge.
When you are about level with the Morlais quarry, the trail reaches the Pontsarn viaduct (a good place for lunch on
the return journey).
After the viaduct, the trail continues as dirt track, until it finally meets up with the roads on the right. Turn
left onto the road. It descends for about 500 metres, but unfortunately all the speed you build up is wasted in a
few moments, as you must turn to the right, and climb up to the Ponsticill reservoir, just below the Brecon Mountain
Railway (which does not go to Brecon).
Follow the road across the dam, and climb gently up to the village of Ponststicill.
At the junction with the main Pontsticill road, turn right. Follow the road up to the forest, then turn left onto
the forestry track.
The trail climbs and falls with some reasonable but short downhills.
At some points you are rewarded with views over the Brecon Beacons, and Ponsticill reservoir.
At one point, the trail suddenly narrows and drops steeply to the right down to a narrow bridge. Engage a low gear,
and try to stay on your bike as the Taff Trail climbs at its steepest up to a more normal section of path.
Turn left at a junction then climb a little more before descending abruptly to the road at the edge of the reservoir.
Turn left, then immediately turn left again, and follow the edge of the Pentwyn reservoir, with the road
climbing and descending. At the end of the reservoir, a short climb leads to a junction with the main road leaving to
the right. Continue ahead, and slowly drop down to a bridge.
Now begins the main climb. Stay with the road as it climbs steadily beside Craig Fan Ddu, heading towards Pen y Fan.
That is your reward, so enjoy it.
At the crest of the road, take the path that doubles back hard on the right. Follow it through several gates, to reach
a carpark at a junction with the main road (a single lane B road).
Turn left, and begin the final climb up to Torpantau, the highest point of the Taff Trail; 440 metres. From here on,
there are no climbs of any real significance, so the hardest parts are over.
The views from this point are particularly impressive, with Craig y Fan Ddu (not Craig Fan Ddu) up to the left,
various ridges ahead, and Talybont reservoir tucked into the valley to the right.
Begin downhill, then turn right onto the forestry track. Early on, this is very steep, but then levels out to become
a steady downhill (not quite enough for good freewheeling, but enough to feel it on the return), with some stunning
views across the valley.
After 6 miles, the Talybont reservoir dam is reached. Turn left, and cross the dam.
At the other end of the dam, turn right, and follow the road. Although fairly simple, the route now becomes less
obvious, and you will have to rely on the Taff Trail signs. In general, you want to keep turning left. The first left
you want to take is after 1.25 miles, and is about the sixth left along the road (if you miss it, don't worry, just
stay on the road until it reaches a T-junction with another road, and turn left there instead).
Follow the road until it joins a larger road (the alternative [corrected mistake] road joins from the right). Turn left, and
follow the road, running alongside the edge of the canal (resist the temptation to join the canal towpath - cyclists are not allowed on this part). Turn left at Pencelli, and follow the road to Llanfrynach.
Turn left at the church in Llanfrynach - take a note of where you came from, it is easy to miss this turning on the way
back. Turn left at the junction with a larger road, and follow it down to a narrow bridge over the river Usk (where cars
coming from ahead have priority).
Immediately after the bridge, turn left onto a canal towpath. Follow the towpath under two bridges. Whenever the
towpath gets narrow (except under the first two bridges), use the road to the left, running parallel to the canal.
Follow the edge of the canal until it suddenly ends. The end of the Taff Trail is marked by a lonely post, and is
fairly easy to miss if you are not paying attention - especially if you get there at late dusk like we did.
If you are looking for somewhere to eat, there is a cafe and chip shop on the square just up the road, where you can chain your bike to a park bench, and they were kind enough to let us sit there in our mud spattered cycling wear.
