Lead climbing

Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ladders, climbs and older techniques

Lead climbing ("free climbing" in climbing terminology)

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Lead climbing to reach a high level passage. Wedges, nuts and a cam were used for protection, with a Petzl Rig for belaying. A climbing harness was used for the climber, but an SRT sit harness was used for the belayer. Neither wore climbing shoes. Lesser Garth Cave.

A climb that is done using standard rock climbing techniques and equipment, relying on that equipment only to provide fall protection, not as a direct support while climbing. This is limited by the clothing and equipment needed for caving, as well as mud, water, and other environmental concerns. Chalk and dedicated footwear are never used. A lifeline is required, using bottom belaying. In general, lead climbing is only done in extreme cases, such as initial exploration of avens. It is rarely used, with bolting being preferred. The climbing term "free climbing" confuses it with a free climb in caving terminology, which is something very different.


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