Maillon, a full history

Vertical caving terminology and methods > General hardware

Maillon ("may-on", or "may-o(n)" if you want perfect French, or "mallion" if you don't know how to read), maillon rapide (sometimes "quick link" in USA)

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A selection of very happy maillons.
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Less common maillon designs: a delta, a narrow pear-shape, and a twist. The narrow pear shape matches one of the earliest climbing carabiners, and allows two items (a rope and carabiner, for example) to fit in the bottom of the same maillon.
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Delta maillons can be pulled in three directions at once.
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When the hanger is perpendicular to the rock, using a twist maillon can help avoid a rope rub.
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A severely worn maillon that had been used in a cave for over 15 years. The notch was formed by it rubbing against the hanger. About 53% of the metal remains, and it could therefore be assumed to have 53% (1466 kg) of its original strength (2750 kg MBS but 3574 kg tested), far above the MBS. However, this loss of strength will depend on how much the rust has compromised it, how much the initial strength depended on the metal thickness and the shape of the maillon itself, and how much the hanger and shape of the notch concentrates the force on the affected area. The corners in the notch will definitely weaken it further. In actual testing pulling it against a hanger, it broke at 2274 kg, while a new one broke at 2632 kg on the same hanger, a 14% strength loss. The maillon should absolutely be replaced.
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Gourd-shaped maillons, which may be described as an "eyelet maillon" are sometimes used to hold equipment at one end. For it to actually work as a captive eye, the equipment needs to not fit through the gap, and would need to be constructed inside the maillon.

Similar to a carabiner, but the gate is not hinged. Instead, it is screw threaded so you screw it slowly across the gap. Much stronger. Much smaller. Much lighter weight. Much slower and more annoying to use. Generally used for rigging. Often used for a D-ring. Some are delta/triangular, to allow three directional attachments, or to allow flat straps like slings to lie along one of the edges. Some twist 90° along the length of the maillon, in order to rotate the equipment they are attached to, which can also be used to push a rope further from the rock, to avoid rope rubs created by some types of hangers. The ratings of maillons vary widely depending on whether they are made of aluminium or steel, and how big they are. If they are going to be used for life critical purposes, such as for rigging, they should be PPE rated (European standard EN 12275), with a minimum breaking strength (MBS) at or above 2.5 tonnes (actually given as a breaking strain of 25 kN), but especially strong versions may be rated as high as 22.5 tonnes, just in case you ever needed to play tug-of-war with a Chinook helicopter.

When used in reality on a hanger, a maillon with a stated MBS of 2750 kg, that would otherwise have broken at 3574 kg in a very careful test with a wide radius, would break at 2632 kg when pulled against a hanger; the hanger takes a tonne off the strength, compared with a wider radius. However, maillons can become damaged from heavy use, and at that point, the strength can no longer be assumed. Once damaged by rubbing against other equipment like hangers, so that a significant portion of the maillon's material is missing at one end, the strength loss is very complex. The notch concentrates the force, and sharper edges of the notch will increase this further. The specific type of metal will play a part. The strength of the maillon comes largely from its shape, with less strength coming from the material thickness, and so in actual testing, the strength loss was surprisingly little. However, there will be a point at which the strength loss dramatically increases, and catastrophic failure can happen quite suddenly. Corrosion has a similarly complex effect, depending on which part it has compromised, particularly if the screw threads are affected, and how far through the material the corrosion has advanced. As a result, damaged maillons should be replaced before the damage becomes significant, not assuming that it is possible to estimate how much strength remains.

History

French blacksmith Firmin Desbiolles invented and made the first maillons in 1923, for the purpose of linking chains for farming. He applied for the patent in 1941. Around 1945, he assigned the patent to Francis Péguet, whose family business Péguet has made them ever since.

This history section only covers maillons. This article also has a detailed history of many of the other devices and techniques that are used for vertical caving.


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